Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-2

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Snowy Niyoma:

That’s the bridge forking out from main road towards Kyun Tso, wonderfully Indus appeared with water here:

This is a dream to drive such a road:

Road continues:

The special colors of Ladakh are peeping through snow covers:

Where this road can lead to:

Dangerous Black Ice Section to Drive:

Mountains, snow, blue sky and lovely clouds – Big 4 to make Ladakh the most unique:

See the dangerous curve and what a deadly turn it is with black ice and slopes, you loose control slightly, on left Indus is waiting for you:

Approaching Mahe:

North Bound Journey started since we left Mahe and only small car we faced in whole journey, surely some locals were driving:

See the difference of colors in the mountains:

Indus water started coming up again as we approaches Chumathang:

Chumathang – Where we spent our coldest night of life, morning 9, temperature was –35 degree C

Small villages enroute:

The road goes through Canyon land:

As every good thing comes to end, we are bidding goodbye to our shadows leaving our soul there, promising we would return again:

What an amazing place, looks so beautiful even from sky

The mighty Himalayan from top:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

The End

Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 5:

Last day was the best day and we could hardly write, describe, show you what we have seen and experienced and felt. It’s not just diesel, it’s time and part of lives frozen for ever in those mind blowing moments.

We got up early and saw the obscure windows completely layered with ice, Sanjay got all his courage to get out of the room to find the guys, we at least need some water to fresh us up but what we left in the bucket was transformed to ice, so good that once the power gone, inside temp was gone subzero and we were supposed to be acclimatized with the temperature at least. Sanjay somehow found Regzin who was also frantically trying to wake up hotel guys, we need some maggy at least before we can start, After yesterdays experience Som initially retired and declared he won’t be out for Loma drive and rather we would pick him up from Chumathang on our return trip. Probably later in the night good sense prevailed and he understood coming so far but not completing the journey when weather and luck both are favoring us would be a big mistake, also realized he won’t be anyway comfortable in the sub zero temp inside the room alone for long. By that time Regzin came with maggy, really never saw a more efficient person than him even in my professional life. In our corporate world every day we speak about customer satisfaction, client need, looking into bigger picture and make client understand what he really wants but if I ever understood and felt that how business could be done following those golden rules of management, it’s Regzin who taught me this. I don’t know how many of you could imagine that a driver would wake up at morning 5.30, then clear the ice from car, heat up the diesel, tried to wake up hotel guys, finally when he couldn’t he managed the keys of kitchen from them, supplied bucket of hot water (you are reading right, it was hot water) and then prepared maggy for us and did everything when outside temp was certainly below -20 degree C outside and literally prepared us for the trip well within time, 7.30 in morning. Without him this trip was never be possible and if by any means readers consider this report to be one of better reports of 2013, please note, the whole credit goes to that veteran ex Ladakh scout guy, who showed us (and you through this report) a completely unknown world to many of us, made me feel how diverse this country is, last year same time, I remember after spending 2 hours in Gokarn beach in Karnataka, I had to take rest for 2 hours in AC where as this year we had to boil ice to drink water.

Journey started and the Indus valley looking amazing with frozen Indus in the morning light. The Scorpio heater couldn’t start as the motor failed to start in that temperature. We reached Mahe Bridge soon and ourselves opened the barrier, Regzin himself gone inside the empty office room to enter the car details, (Thinking if really permit can be checked in odd hours of the day), Few road workers started coming into the region and waiting for the BRO pickup trucks and they said next 10km is a horrible stretch ahead and quite a few accident happened in that stretch in last one week. We realized soon, it was completely a stretch of black ice and only Regzin knew how he could drive in such a situation. The moment we took the left turn from Mahe Bridge the Loma the magic began, it was all white, a cliché to use here but believe me I am short of words what I have seen there in that stretch between Mahe bridge to Loma, it was not black and white, rather blue and white every where you can see.

Suddenly we felt a jerk, Scorpio jumped a little but anyway it was managed, we understood we hit somewhere where the ice was little loose and that was the reason of the bump, anyway we keep continuing, saw someone coming into a scooter, we slowed down and checked if it was Masterji again there but no it was not him (But I wont be surprised to meet him there too and finding a solo scooter trilogy in BCMTS soon ). When we almost reached Loma, could see the famous bridge (which they don’t even allow to photograph) Regzin complained about lack of traction in Scorpio. We also got surprised, the car which served us for last one week in all odds, what happened to him in Changthang, soon we realized it was not take any pickup and slowly stopped. Regzin and all of us gone out of the car in that ocean of ice to investigate and to our surprise Regzin diagnosed that the diesel was frozen completely. What?? Diesel frozen? in a running car?? Regzin was shots with lots of questions and we started telling him the car has started showing ages especially the odo touching 300 thousand km. Then Regzin explained us, it was that jerk we felt on the way because of loose ice, caught some ice into the transmission and tank and it slowly took its toll, freezing the whole system of the running car!!! I couldn’t believe but then he was Regzin, brought out a stove, lying on the fresh ice for some 45 mins under the car with that stove to make it workable. Only he could!! We couldn’t light up a cig, it was so windy with extreme chill and this guy was simply heating up the car lying on snow for 45 mins. Outside temp was -35 at least and our body temp gone close to 10 even when we were inside the Jeep.

Anyway we tried our best to take as many photos as we could take and once Regzin started the Scorpio again, we started our return journey, we were hardly a km away from Loma and thought it’s better to start return journey as we had to go to Leh with a lunch break at Chumathang. The return journey was equally fascinating and we finally reached Leh around 6.30 in evening. We had planned for Nubra valley on next day but then we knew a big WD was approaching, next day would be sunny but from evening the weather started turning bad. The next day was Thursday one of those 3 days you can go from Leh to Nubra on winter (It’s not open all days like summer months), so there was no possibility of day trip, also we thought simply a journey to Khardungla won’t match with what we have seen in Changthang and now after visiting Ladakh so many times, I think, nothing can match that region, it’s simply fabulous. Still I wanted to see the dunes of Nubra which are attractive too but obviously being a part of Taklamakan desert and being sandwiched between Kunlun, Karakoram and Ladakh range, it hardly receives any moisture and so there won’t be much snow in the valley. Also the extreme uncertainties of flight during that time (Alok’s case was fresh in mind) we decided finally to call of the rest of the trip. Rest means we were supposed to go to Nubra on Thursday, come back to Leh on Friday, kept a day in Leh on Saturday for Shanti Stupa and all, and our flight was booked on Sunday. Now when we saw back to back strong WD coming from Friday, we had no choice but to take a chance with Thursday flight. We made final call at 8.30 to catch a morning flight next day. Informed Regzin that we are going to give a try to leave tomorrow else we can foresee a week’s disruption at least. One more problem was by Sunday a lot of Chadar trekkers would be back and getting a ticket would be more difficult. Now at 9.00 in night we had all sorts of problems of extreme slow net connection, weak phone signal, no electricity what not!! But we knew we had to give our best, my office didn’t know anything on this adventure they still knew I was out of country. Som and Sanjay were pressed for time as well. Along with this we had several other problems, I booked my ticket from airlines website, one got it from Yatra, one brought it through net banking where as without credit cards you can’t change it over phone. Anyway let’s not get into details, with 3 long hours, with packets of cigs burnt, when we finished the job it was already Thursday, post midnight. Then we had to do some kind of adjustment in our luggage after all Leh is a high security airport. We finally gone to sleep after 1.00, what a day it was, starting from morning till end it was all filled with surprise and uncertainties.

Regzin was sad but being a Ladakhi he understands better than us what bad weather means, he arranged everything for our dinner on Friday but anyway there is always a next time. Starting from reaching there on 3 consecutive holidays and still getting the permit, visiting starting point of Chadar Trek, Dah Hanu Village, a drive on frozen pangong, a frozen tsomoriri with lone Kiyang and then finally the ice age at Loma, we got all what we wanted in extremely good weather. Ladakh never returned me without a good weather, I love this place so much and really don’t know how many more times I have to go there and keep you guys bored with all little things.

Next day flight departed a little late as from morning the day started cloudy and windy, as we could see in IMD.. but anyway we took off around 11.00 am saw clouds everywhere from top unlike what we saw the day we came. Reached Leh, spent some pathetic 5/6 hours in T3 after such an ambience in Leh and got the connecting flight to Kolkata and safely reached and after this adventurous trip, first victim was my driver when in Jan end he had to switch on the full AC once I stepped into Kolkata. I was born and brought up here and in 4 decades I never felt Kolkata so hot in January

PS: I kept watching the Jet website for the flight status between Leh-Delhi and we took Thursday’s flight, and next flight departed Leh after exactly one week on next Thursday, such was the impact of 2 back to back strong WD. So all well if it ends well as it happened every time with me in Ladakh!!

Let’s not talk more, share the last few snaps of this great trip and I think you won’t be disappointed.

Morning in Chumathang:

Way to Mahe Bridge:

The Ocean of snow:

Work Horse, The Scorpio, note the side glasses are still completely frozen after 1 hour of heating and direct sunlight from outside:

Diesel Frozen, Regzin working it out:

Ice Age (Far away Loma Bridge):

A Dream Land, isn’t it?

Regzin posing:

Kingdom of Ice:

See someone tried offroading even here:

Nyoma Air Base:

What a road to drive:

Lone Truck:

Frozen Indus on the left:

See the stylish Ladakhi cloud:

Nice 100 mtr black Top, looks so nice in the white background:

Approaching Niyoma:

That’s Nyoma, frozen and sleeping in January:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

Next: Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 4

IMD suggested 2 more sunny days before another WD hits, so we were cheerful about our changthang expedition, though what we heard from Alok / Jasdeep was not at all promising. They had a nightmarish experience which would be narrated in their log but that description on spot would be enough to send a spike of chill across your spine. We had two hopes to be honest, first the clear weather prediction of IMD which usually gets very accurate in 48 hours span and second is Regzin. We knew so long Regzin was with us, we would be safe and happy. Somehow he has some lucky charm at least it worked with me be it crossing Photula, or entering Demchok or crossing the stream in Chumur or loosing our way to Tsomoriri or even when bridge was removed in Khaltse. I don’t know it’s because of his army background or what but he really could keep immense calm and composure whenever he is pushed to corner, so we didn’t think much started our journey quite early. It was first time we were checking out of Leh hotel after our 4 days of stay. We had our breakfast ready on time by hotel guys, they were really helpful, cooperated with us every time whenever we needed. The morning was really beautiful as we were running through Leh – Manali highway in cold morning of Jan, semi frozen Indus was with us and the morning sun glowing at its best on some of the famous monasteries like Thiksey and Spituk.

We reached Upashi quite quickly and had a tea break there, Som tried coffee, wonderful surroundings with bright sun and chilling ambience was gripping. Now it was time for us to leave Leh-Manali highway and take the road towards Mahe via Chumathang, following Indus all across. In my last trip to Ladakh, I covered almost all of the Ladakh where road had reached but somehow missed out the stretch between Upashi to Loma as I took Spangmik – Loma – Hanle – Chumur – Tsomoriri – Tanglangla – Leh during my last trip. So for me and Som it was a new venture where as Sanjay has already covered this stretch. The road entered into the Indus Canyon and the color of the red canyons were quite similar to those of Arizona just may be at 5 times height with Indus flowing in between. It was an amazing journey across the colorful canyons with semi frozen Indus. The more we were going, the water on top was reducing leaving places to ice on Indus.

We reached Chumathang and the restaurant there was covered in all glass, was giving a green house effect, amazingly warm and I had my best lunch in winter Leh just with Maggie. I noticed clearly that upper portion of the hot springs are all frozen at 2.00pm in afternoon. So that was enough to give a clue of the night we are going to stay there. As Sanjay mentioned, with the advice of Alok/Jasdeep, we secured the electric heater for us at least till 10.00 (till power remains) and then after finishing the lunch we started proceeding for Mahe Bridge. Now the road ceased to exist, it’s all ice, only the difference of height demarcated the road and Indus. We reached the Mahe Bridge and at 2.30, I simply couldn’t stand on Mahe Bridge to take more than 2 shots. This part was terribly windy and after showing permit at Mahe Bridge as we proceeded towards Sumdo, we found an Army Gypsy there trying its best to navigate through ice. This part from Mahe to Sumdo was the worst with all black ice and the army vehicle was wildly swinging, when we overtook it, the driver asked Regzin how far Sumdo was and would the road be improved, they were going to the village for a route check but looking at their driving skill, we understood why Regzin stood apart even in comparison to the army drivers. I doubted if the Gypsy at all reached Sumdo as we didn’t see it any more till our journey and we took lots of photo breaks in between. It’s skill with confidence and calm head that makes the difference in these difficult conditions and Regzin was master of all. The Sumdo village was sleeping in frozen time it seems, we took left turn and spotted the jackal on the top, how it survives -40/-45 of Changthang, what it hunts then, God only know.

The journey was turning more adventurous as Regzin was describing his last visit to Tsomoriri in first week of Jan when there was no ice at all and even the lake was not frozen. In this journey we couldn’t spot the road except the tyre marks. As I mentioned Regzin had some lucky charms, somehow we found a JCB was coming clearing the ice and I am almost sure as was Regzin, without that solitary touch of God coming from nowhere, we might not able to reach Tsomoriri. Later we linked the thread as we met few army men in Chumathang who were waiting to be transported to Chumur and it was for the army truck to pass, the JCB was in action. So it’s all about the time and luck when you venture in winter Ladakh, even best possible plan would fail and best possible backup won’t work and that’s the beauty of the place.

We reached Tso Kiagar which was completely frozen, took few snaps and then drove straight to Tsomoriri which was also completely frozen, couldn’t just believe my eyes that such a gorgeous lake can be frozen and all blue turned in white miraculously. The whole Changthang which is so lively in summer months seems to be sleeping in a magic touch of white. We didn’t have time to wait for long as the evening was approaching, cold wind was blowing furiously and sun was hiding in back of the mountains, clouds were coming from all around. We started our return journey and reached Chumathang before it was dark. That evening we hopelessly tried to take some night shots but understood 2 things clearly, first you shouldn’t challenge Changthang temp after sun is down and second, whatever Nikon says, it can’t sustain extremities of Ladakh winter at night. The fabulous D7000 of Sanjay started malfunctioning after a long exposure of 20mins and I didn’t dare to risk my old and feeble D80 after that. We took probably 3 blankets each on top of whatever layers of dresses we had and slept.

Morning at Thiksey:

Gorgeous location of Spituk Monastery:

At Upashi from bridge on Indus:

Colorful canyons on the way to Chumathang:

Indus Water started becoming narrower:

Road towards Mahe Bridge:

Read the BRO Board: Kashmir to Kanyakumari – India is One:

Mahe Bridge:

Both Sides from Mahe Bridge – Indus was completely frozen on top:

Approaching Sumdo:

Sleeping in white blanket – Sumdo:

Tso Kiagar:

On the way to Tsomoriri:

Tsomoriri – Frozen by all means:

On the way back to Chumathang, a small pass:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

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Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Villages along the Road:

Approaching Khaltse, see the mountain colors:

The mark of Tea cup on a frozen table:

On the Batalik Road towards Dha:

Village on the other side (See how the stream coming from the village frozen before meeting Indus)

The lovely vista:

Indus at its best:

The Bridge crossing Indus and meeting Batalik Road (the road through Chikan which I discussed with Harsh, last night over phone)

The scenery continues:

The river corners in deep gorges completely frozen due to absence of sunlight:

The Indus from Dha Village:

On the way to Dha Village:

Local Lady at Dha Village:

Return Journey:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 3:

We already knew from Alok that a bridge on the way to Dha Hanu was removed and they had caught in surprise while coming back. So I started preparing some plans as I didn’t understand the exact location of the bridge. First name came to mind was that of Harsh, I called him straight away (as I usually do whenever I am in trouble in HP/ Ladakh, as I know the most authentic map, you could get from him only) to understand the possible work around in case the bridge is not restored. I remembered Harsh covered Dah Hanu from Lamayuru via Chikan, as usual he explained me quickly about the roads there and thanks buddy you are so helpful always. Alok had an impression the bridge might get restored in a day or two, so we were hopeful as well but Regzin understands the ground reality of Ladakh much better than any of us, he asked us to be prepared in early morning as it was a day trip and we had to cover a lot of distance. So we had a quick breakfast and I must say Tso Kar Hotel was very cooperative, at such a low minus temp, they were ready with Alu – Paratha at 6 in the morning. Understanding morning sky when lights are not fully out is always difficult and Sanjay did the mistake of finding it as a clear day. I was confident it won’t be, IMD is quite good in WD forecasting and I have been observing that almost for last 4 years. Locals told me immediately it was going to be a gloomy day with fair chance of snow, only hope was IMD predicted it as a weak WD. The moment we started, we understood it’s absolutely cloudy, the peaks of stok Kangri and other ranges were not visible and there was a grey colored sky all around. The more we were going, weather was getting worse further. At Nimmu, it started snowing and thanks to Almighty we got a chance to see a completely different view of Ladakh in less than 24 hours.

We had a quick tea break at Nimmu and then enjoying the snow ride towards Khaltse. One thing we noticed, Regzin was keep entering in all the fuel stations enroute and tried his best to get fuel, though his tank was full. When enquiring about that, we came to know he was trying to get diesel for one of his friend / relative who got stuck in Khaltsi. Now that early in a snowy morning no pump was open, Regzin had to wake up people in a fuel station finally get his Jaricane filled up. We kept moving with keeping Indus in left and enjoying the amazing views all around of NH1. He stopped before Khaltse and picked his friend up, now I knew him, he was Sonam and he was one of the driver of a group from Kolkata in 2011 October, incidentally I recognized him from my last trip and then understood that his brother’s car (the one Alok used too) was still on the other side of the Khaltsi bridge and the bridge was still going on. Regzin planned everything carefully and that’s why he was so frantically looking for diesel in so early hours of day. Anyway we parked the car in this side and started walking towards other side. With so many cameras, they thought us as a group of reporters and asked us to meet the boss of the team working there. When we told we were just visitors they were happy (everyone is scared of media), reason was clear as since 2 days before they were telling everyone the bridge would be commissioned in 24 hours, Alok also heard the same 48 hours back and locals in Khaltse said the realistic dateline should be another 4 days at least. Just imagine how thin the traffic was between Kargil and Leh so they could easily keep the highway dysfunctional for a week without anyone’s notice. Alok rightly pointed out, they brought heavy artilleries and crossed the bridge capacity and that broke the bridge but anyway it was amazing to see how adjusting the locals were, you should learn patience from the people living here in so harsh conditions.

On the other side, Regzin had to put lot of efforts to heat up the diesel of Innova and we almost spent an hour there before we could start our journey towards Dha. Soon the road bifurcates and first time in life I took the Batalik route and it was amazingly beautiful, at least because of semi frozen Indus and colorful mountains, I found this road more scenic than the fork via Lamayuru. We reached Dha quite late and started to walk up towards the village, now after initial few steps, the whole village was situation as racks in the mountain wall, you know you have to go up to next higher level but finding the road was difficult in snow. Regzin was somehow trying to show us couple of natives as Aryans which when we challenged he confessed as they being Nepali only. The village and the people were amazing and we really didn’t have much time to explore as we had to go back to Leh all the way and it was almost 4.00pm by then. We started our return journey and yes again left the innova on the other side of bridge and crossed walking and yes Mr. X had a nasty fall while returning, he was lucky as he was with a thick gloves that saved his hands, he got some minor injuries in knee though but yes it was an experience too to touch the water at that late hours. Once again a tea break in other side of bridge and finally we started from Khaltsi around 6.00 in evening in middle of dark for Leh. Regzin was expert in such a snowy and frozen track in dark and controlled the car very well in slippery condition without reducing the speed much.

The moon rise behind Stok was amazing and the whole ambience with snowy peaks, mighty Indus got changed in the silvery touch of moonlight. Awesome scene, hardly can be expressed in words. We reached Leh quite late around 8.30 and next day we had to check out from Leh as we were proceeding towards Chumathang.

Painting in a snowy morning:

Amazing landscapes:

Indus flowing lazily:

So True:

Amazing Vista:

Note the water freezing on lens (The spots on sky):

The Scorpio:

Fabulous colors in white mountains:

Beautiful Vista:

Villages on Other side:

So Colorful:

NH1 – Leh – Kargil – Srinagar in the month of January:

The mountains are at their best

Locals lead quiet life:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

Ladakh – Kyun Tso, Salsal La, Chumur to Tsomoriri

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

5th October:

We were ready with another adventure filled day ahead of us. Harsh was of great help with details of this stretch but we were still skeptic with if we really could manage to find our roads to Tsomoriri via Chumur. We started early by 8.30am on that day and plan was to take Hanle – Kyun Tso – Salsal la and then reaching Chumur and tracing back the path to Tee joint as mentioned in Harsh’s map and back to Tso moriri via Charchaghan la. We had few concerns, if we could manage Charchaghan la if it was still not blasted, if we could find the road without any GPS/Compass and if we turn back, could we climb up Salsal la as it was pretty steep as reported in Harsh’s log. We had plans to take the Kyun Tso – Nidar – Nyoma route as backup if we couldn’t find/ manage Tsomoriri route, but then we knew we didn’t have the names of Nyoma / Mahe/ Sumdo mentioned in our permits. Not having much choice left, we had to start, only hope our luck, it was surprisingly favouring us all through the trip.

We came to main road from observatory GH and took a right straight away to the village (left would take you towards monastery and the junction of Photila/Loma roads). Soon after crossing the village we found a lot of black neck cranes and it was a pleasure to see them from so close. Soon it seems we were entering a no man’s land, only directions are the poles as Harsh mentioned in his log. Few extremely difficult stretch of washed out areas and we were into a desolate Himalayan terrain with no soul around. In just 2 hours with 45km of drive we discovered Kyun Tso. It was a pleasing site. We stopped for photo breaks and just before this we found a track in our right towards Nyoma. We headed straight and in another 6 km we found the dramatic descent of Salsal la. It is a frightening sight, God knows how Harsh climbed it up from other side but best part was the road now blasted and the new road’s gradient was much smoother and in case we had to trace back the route, we could climb it up again. We gone down below and after crossing a small Nalla, we suddenly lost the pole markers. We tried our best to find the correct route, we couldn’t. Our only option was either to follow tyre tracks forward or to be back via Nyoma. We trusted our lucks and praying hard but decided to go forward. Soon we were brought into a large green pastures of land with many sheep grazing. We were little hopeful with signs of lives around. Kiangs were roaming and big snow peaks all around, a true remote Changthang feel is what you would get here. After another 10km, we found a place towards right and identified it as an ITBP camp. It was the Chumur ITBP and we saw the Nulla without Bridge at right too. We were already at the side of the Nulla where Chumur village is and realized the actual road was coming from other side of Nalla which we lost in the middle after crossing Salsal la. We visited the monastery which was behind a mountain and a small pass. Lamas were friendly and they showed us mummy and the cut off hands of witch those were the special attractions here. A new road was built below the monastery towards LAC mainly for military movement and villagers reiterated Chinese incursions happened there on 25th August. It was another 12km from the monastery where the Chinese army destroyed our unused bunkers. We had quick visit to the monastery and when asked about the road to Tsomoriri we got mixed answers. We heard road to Tsomoriri was in a very nice shape but when we asked about the point from where Tsomoriri and Salsal la road bifurcates, the monk answered calmly “You can’t manage to find it without a GPS” I was shocked but then he said, I had to cross the Nalla towards ITBP Camp and then take the straight road to right and ensure I shouldn’t divert towards Salsal la but neither of us had an idea how to ensure that. He mentioned if you could cross the Nalla, you would almost reach Tsomoriri, I asked quickly what’s the problem in crossing the Nalla, he said it’s difficult to cross after 2.00pm. It was already 2.00pm by then and we hurriedly proceeded towards the ITBP. From top what we saw was not encouraging, the place where the tyre tracks could be seen was at least 30 ft wide and it was flowing in full rage. We couldn’t guess the depth even as it’s appeared to be deep with blue clear water but so turbulent we couldn’t see the anything below. First time we felt we had to retreat here. Regzin tried in various ways to guess the depth but of no use. Honestly we were scared as retracing the whole road means uncertainty as we didn’t know how to go to the Tsomoriri road from Salsal la. Regzin aligned the Scorpio with the tyre marks and he was clearly nervous too. We gone back 50 mtrs and then he gave the final push, for few seconds we clearly felt we were drifting and then in the momentum we came to the other side, unbelievable experience but we crossed and in the whole trip we haven’t scared more. Regzin took a break to check if water gone into any filter/engine but fortunately it was all okay. We started our onward journey through Chumur ITBP, no one there asked any questions and we soon hit a deserted stretch with sands all around. The poles appeared again but the sands were unbelievably sticky. With every 200 mtrs we had to stop the car and clean the wind screen, rear windows, mirrors to get the minimum visibility. Every time we were stopping we were risking of getting stuck too as sand was too soft. It was a horrible time and worse was we didn’t know if we were in right track, only hope was the poles were still there. Soon beside the poles we found some red flags as markers too, running almost parallel but that was adding confusion, couldn’t understand what were those markers for. Soon we realized that’s the alignment of new road that is coming from Tsomoriri and we were overjoyed to realize that we were in right track. After few more km we started finding the new roads approaching to Chumur. It was simply a 4 lane highway and surely looks much better than current Leh-Manali or Leh-Srinagar highway. With a pleasant surprise we took the new road and it was still an unpaved road but blasted and properly leveled one. Soon we understood Charchaghan La was properly blasted and we reached the top soon. Once descending we got some amazing view of Tsomoriri which one can’t get from Korzok end. Couldn’t take snaps well as we were at eastern end of lake and sun was on western sky. Finally we reached Korzok by 5.00pm but surprisingly found the whole village was packed with Bengali tourists, we were hit by Puja rush for first time in our trip, forced to get the last tent available in only tented accommodation there at a bargain price of 2000/- for double with kid. But we were told they would wind up on 6th and if we wanted to stay further we needed to find some alternatives. The night was absolutely chilling and windy and we decided to move to Leh on next day as accommodation was really difficult to manage, so late in the season. I had 2 backup days then initially planned for Leh – Manali but after such a hectic trip we decided take complete rest and then to fly out from Leh.

The car odo reading was as follows:

Hanle : 844
Kyun Tso: 891
Salsal La (17200ft) : 897
Chumur: 933
North end of lake at Bridge: 010
Korzok: 020

Black Neck Cranes near Hanle Village:

Hanle Village:

Smart Kid at Hanle:

Kyun Tso

The Dramatic Descent from Salsal la towards Chumur, blasted road at left and old road at right:

After this we lost the pole markers and tyre tracks lead us to a grassland:

Only living being apart from us were these Kiangs:

Here we identified Chumur ITBP and realized the actual road was on other side of the river, we somehow came here by loosing the actual road but now after Chumur we had to cross this: