Ladakh – Journey to Pangong crossing Wari La & Chang La

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

01st October:

Our luck with weather was still continuing as we were in our tenth day of the trip and weather would play a crucial role for this day as we were to take Wari la – Changla route to reach Pangong from Nubra. Deskit – Khalsar was in normal route from where route towards Agham diverts and we gone through a completely desolate 31km drive where we were the only car. Excellent fun journey with Shyok river and lots of photo stops we reached Agham and here again two roads diverts, one through Wari La – Changla – Durbuk (total 134 km with 2 high passes) and other through Agham – Shyok – Durbuk route which doesn’t cross any pass and distance is only 66km. We enquired and a local portrayed a horrible picture of Agham – Shyok route and told the road was absolutely cut off in multiple places and we couldn’t reach there. We spoken to a BRO camp nearby and they said it’s under 93 RCC who owns that stretch and their HQ was at Shyok and they don’t have much idea on that part of the road but mentioned their supplies which earlier used to come through that road now stopped and currently brought through Wari La. Indication was clear that road was not through. We started our journey to Tangyar, the last village before the steep ascent of Wari La starts. This road was really desolate and the steepness would be hard to ignore, the lonely Scorpio was trying hard with snows around the road, the water source and nallas were semi frozen and a few yaks around are the only thing you could see apart from tall mountains around. We reached the top after almost a 40 km drive from Agham. The road was tarred all through and descent to Shakti was in even better condition. We were overjoyed after crossing Wari La and took a tea break in Shakti, a nice valley looks so beautiful with fall colors. Soon we started our ascent to Changla and reached the top without much difficulties and roads are superb from Shakti towards Changla and same remains good till Lukung where you reach the Pangong lake. At Durbuk, Regzin got diesels as we had a long route to take without any option of fuel. Here we spoke to 93 RCC on Agham – Shyok route and they told us categorically that road was not through but considering October water level, Scorpio could manage that road but then it was too late to utilize this great piece of information. Tangtse was very close in another 9km and we have enough time to approach the Pangong but we decided to take a break at Tangtse as it was 1000 ft lower than Spangmik and would help us to acclimatize at Changthang though we were already well acclimatized by then. But later we found our decision was good as we had light headache and suddenly feeling quite cold in that night, it’s highly recommended to stay a night at Tangtse specially if someone comes from lower height of Nubra directly. The best place to stay was Dothguling and luckily we got it completely vacant though people didn’t get any place to stay here for next few days, courtesy Puja Rush. Again Regzin managed the nice double room for Rs. 500/- here, offseason and Regzin’s bargaining skill was a lethal combo.

Khalsar to Agham with Shyok following us:

Tanjiyar Village, last village before ascent to Warila:

Approaching Wari La, Rivers started freezing down at that height:

At Wari La Top:

Descent to Shakti:

Amazing Fall Colors at Shakti Valley:

Shakti Valley from Top, straight one towards Warila and right one towards Changla:

Towards Chang La:

At Chang La Top:

Tangtse Valley from Top:

02nd October:

We were little skeptic on the accommodation options at Spangmik and wanted to reach early there to evaluate the options and avail the best possible option what we could get. We already were informed most of the GH at Spangmik were closed for the season. Started around 8.00 in the morning from Tangtse and enroute took some time to spend with the marmots who are quite habituated in human interaction unlike the population we found in Zanskar. Some quick photo breaks and we are at Lukung where the famous Pangong Lake starts. With lots of snaps available across web and some Bollywood movies are shot, Pangong is quite a common name to all of us now but I felt a drastic change since I first time saw this heavenly lake in 2003. I remember we were only car in Sep begin for the 6 hours we spent in Lukung that time but this time at 10.00 am we found shops, tents, so many people around and lots of cars and that too in October. Hope the lake would survive along its fragile ecosystem under this tremendous onslaught of mass tourism. The famous 3-Idiots shooting actually started in Tsomoriri around middle of Sep 2008 and after a day shoot started, the whole region snowed out completely and that year the Sep snow was so heavy that thousands of people got stuck across Leh-Manali highway for 4/5 days. The crew cancelled the shooting and they came back next year (2009) July in Pangong as administration didn’t permit them to shoot at Tsomoriri during July as it was breeding time for migratory birds. That’s the way Pangong came into fame. The crew stayed at Dothguling GH in Tangtse for few days and they took snaps of all the actors/actresses at their GH, having lunch / dinner at their dining room and now have kept those snaps all across the GH.I was told by them that Aamir Khan was happy in this postponing of the shoot as in new schedule he got an opportunity to shoot the last scene at the fag end of shooting which was not possible if it would have been done as per original schedule in the beginning. Nothing surprising from a perfectionist like him though. We spent some time at Lukung though it was absolutely crowded and then moved towards Spangmik crossing few more shooting spots all of them are famous with the movie. At Spangmik the JKTDC GH which is now leased to locals were empty but they said they were winding up. After some requests they agreed to let us in and we got the nice double room just beside lake with attached toilets at 2500/- including all meals. Not really cheap but definitely cheaper than its actual price of 4500/- I was not really keen to bargain here as almost all the GH were closed down and we felt the chill last night at Tangtse itself which was 1000 ft lower. Checked in there, had hot tea and gone to lake side soon after. Here there was no crowd and you can enjoy the lake of your own. Great feelings to see the various shades of blue in the backdrop of brown and red mountains. Enjoyed the lake till evening but we started feeling the chilling wind across the lake as the time progresses and got an idea what to face in the night. The night was really cold and probably coldest in our whole trip and we found in morning the waters in buckets and pipes were frozen.

Friendly Marmots on the way to Lukung:

Magical Pangong Tso:

At Spangmik, lake was belong to us, very few tourist and the blue with magical fall colors:

JKSRTC Bus at Spangmik, frequency once in a week:

The lovely kid at Spangmik:

Previous: Ladakh – Nubra Valley: Hundar, Turtuk, Deskit

Next: Ladakh – Merak, Chusul, Hanle, Koyul and Demchok, the last point on LAC between India and China

Ladakh – Nubra Valley: Hundar, Turtuk, Deskit

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

29th September:

We started around 8.00am as 9.00 was the start of movement for Army Convoy towards Khardungla Pass. Our destination for the day was Nubra Valley and more specifically Hundar. Regzin was waiting with his Black Scorpio JK-10-2772 and it was the start of my second part of the trip. As we started relatively early and it was fag end of the season, roads were free from traffic and we found ice and even some small frozen waterfall enroute. We reached Khradungla top pretty quickly and didn’t face much of a problem as we were acclimatized by that time quite well. K-Top is a nice place to view Zanskar Range in your South and Karakoram Range in your North while you stand on top of the Ladakh Range. The road between South Pullu to North Pullu is pathetic but rest of the roads are quite good. We got down to Khalsar and then with few photo stops reached Deskit where we taken our lunch. We liked Snow Leopard GH at Hundar for its nice location and ambience and Regzin bargained it for 600/- for a nice double room with running hot waters. Brilliant deal and not only here, he bargained for me in every guest house in local language including when I was shopping in Leh market and saved at least Rs. 5000/- for me in his good negotiation skill during the whole trip. Late afternoon was kept for Camel Safari ride and it was really a fun for the kid. My kid surprisingly found her class mate there and was overjoyed (Both parents were surprised too as we never expected this and of course both took a week off before the school closes for Puja holidays without informing the real intention to anyone.) Moral is be prepared to find Bengalis in any part of the world during Puja Vacation

Looking at Leh from the road to Khardung La:

Zanskar Range going West to East at South side of Leh:

Frozen Water Fall on the way to Khardungla

At K-Top:

Local at Khalsar:

Shyok river would be with you in most part of Nubra Valley:

Towards Deskit:

Towards Hundar, crossing the Sand dunes:

Snow Leopard GH at Hundar, very nicely located:

Hundar:

She is happy with Sands:

30th September:

Another sunny day to start with and we were all ready by 8.00 in the morning to start for Turtuk, I was excited as this was a new addition to my earlier Ladakh experience. Roads are excellent all through and Shyok would be with you through out the journey. A stretch of road across right bank of the river now abandoned as it was land slide prone and new alignment was made from left bank. We crossed the bridge before Turtuk where our permits were checked and that was the border earlier with Pakistan before the war of 1971. During war of 1971, Turtuk came under Indian Control and the main difference you would find in Turtuk from rest of Ladakh, it’s in much lower height around 8000 ft (even lower than Kargil/Sonmarg) and it’s Muslim dominated and culturally completely different from Ladakh. A village walk is a must here and you would be amazed by the greenery and agriculture you would find here. Turtuk had some home stay and 2 luxury tents that usually costs 3500 but was offering double tents for 2000 to us but we had no plan to stay at Turtuk. So had our lunch and drive back to Deskit. Deskit had a Govt initiated Internet facility with V-Sat connection, where I was relieved to see clear weather till 6th October. It was 7th onwards IMD was expecting a Western Disturbance to hit the region. I made up my mind not to venture for Leh-Manali drive and rather decided to explore more on Ladakh as Koyul/Chumur were all in my permits. I had enough time as I had a tickets for flying out of Leh on 9th October. This is actually the last place for me to check weather over internet before Hanle as next day I decided to take Wari La/Changla route rather than coming back to Leh again. Evening was spent in Deskit Monastery, The monastery was renovated a lot since my last visit and car now can go much higher as I remember almost a 45 mins hike to top last time when I visited this in 2003. Deskit Monastery was under Hindu influence earlier and you can still find deity of Mahakaal and Yamraj there in a temple. The valley view from top specially in morning and afternoon is brilliant. I wanted to stay at Sand Dune GH as that’s the one I stayed last time but unfortunately all the GH in Deskit was lacking support staff during that time and food was not available. Only GH that was still functioning was Olthang and we checked in there. Once again Regzin got a nice bargain for a double room with running water at Rs. 600/-. We decided to give Sumur – Panamik stretch a miss as we visited that part last time and didn’t find it much interesting and may be later if civilians would be allowed to Sasoma – Siachen or Saser La – DBO, we would try that route again

Road to Turtuk:

Shyok would be all along with you:

So Sweet:

Md. Ramjan at Turtuk, he was 23 years old when Turtuk came under control of India in 1971:

Kareena, as her name suggests, fond of posing for a snap unlike others:

We found these 4 inside the school building getting ready for the classes, so sweet they are:

Looking curiously from back:

Road is excellent, crossing Thoise Air Base:

Hundar Again:

Deskit Monastery:

Previous: Ladakh – Sankoo, Kargil to Leh

Next: Ladakh – Journey to Pangong crossing Wari La & Chang La

Ladakh – Exploring Zanskar, Ladakh and Remote Changthang – Introduction

May 25, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

Managing Zanskar and Ladakh in one go for 18 days with kid, possible? The question was looming large but then planning to Demchok and Chumur adds more uncertainty and seems to be an insane idea. Now while going to Demchok from Hanle, crossing Photila and trying Tsomoriri directly from Hanle, won’t it be crazy? Yes we started a well planned trip with lots of input from this forum but honestly it gone beyond sanity to try with just wife and kid. We enjoyed thoroughly and in God’s grace got excellent weather. This is the time to share our experience.

I have been to Ladakh earlier and knew the challenges, challenge of acclimatizing your body with that height of 11K+ almost through out the trip, desolate and remoteness of the Zanskar Valley and Changthang Plateau, choosing the right window for travel considering the early and late seasons are full of uncertainties and actual small 2 month’s window of July and August are terribly crowded. For me it was more challenging as I was going to take this trip with just my wife and kid of 6.5 yrs. Getting a car with reasonable price and knowledgeable drivers who have some ideas beyond Nubra/Pangong/Tsomoriri were a must to make this trip a success. Number of Taxi Unions and their self proclaimed rules in their own areas were another mess you need to handle if you want to take up this trip. Kargil Cars can take you to Zanskar but can’t take you back without paying a premium to Zanskar Union, for Zanskar sight seeing you have to take Zanskar Cabs, Kargil Cabs can take you to Leh but can’t do sightseeing in Lamayuru etc. enroute. I was again lucky to get introduced to ex.Taxi Union President of Kargil Mr. Rehman, a nice gentleman who helped me to get Kazim, a middle aged person with a Scorpio and Xylo and it’s because of him I was able to complete my Zanskar trip. Ladakh part was never be possible without Regzin, who was simply outstanding and being an ex. army of Ladakh Scouts and posted in all corners of Ladakh including Siachen, DBO, Chumur, Demchok for 18 years, he knew how to follow the tyre track and common sense for hundreds of km before coming across the first vehicle for opposite side without any direction or maps.

Another funny part was the plans and backups I kept, I had to cancel 5 sets of tickets for different sectors those were planned as my backup in different stages. My idea was to visit through Srinagar but had to keep Del-Leh flight open in case situation in Srinagar Valley turns volatile, similarly I kept my return plan open so that I can travel to Leh – Manali or can fly out from Leh directly which I did eventually. I even had to cancel a Del-Kolkata Rajdhani ticket while my Del-Kol flight was taxied to runway which I kept in case Leh-Del flight gets cancelled and subsequently my Kolkata connection would have missed.

Weather in this region was a big ask, you never know when that could change dramatically but with God’s grace and good wishes of many other friends, I got probably the best weather possible, first time I saw cloud in the sky on my last day of the trip, it was absolutely cloudless and blue sky with fall colors all around.

The Trip Schedule is like this:

Day 1 – Fly from Kolkata to Srinagar via Delhi and on same day proceed to Sonmarg and stay

Day 2 – Sonmarg – Jojila – Drass – Kargil – Purtikchey

Day 3 – Purtikchey – Panikhar – Parkachik – Rangdum – Pensi La – Padum

Day 4 – Padum Stay and visit Strongde Monastery, Zangla Palace, Bardan Monastery and Karsha Monastery

Day 5 – Padum – Sankhoo

Day 6 – Sankhoo – Kharse Khar Village for Maiterya Buddha – Kargil – Leh

Day 7- Leh Permits and Local Sight Seeing

Day 8 – Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley – Hunder

Day 9 – Hunder – Turtuk – Deskit

Day 10 – Deskit – Wari La – Chang La – Tangtse

Day 1 1 – Tangtse – Spangmik

Day 12 – Spangmik – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsga La – Loma – Hanle

Day 13 – Hanle – Photi La – Photile – Koyul – Demchok Back to Hanle

Day 14 – Hanle – Kyun Tso – Salsal La – Chumur – Charchagan La – Tsomoriri

Day 15 – Tsomoriri – Tso Kar – Tanglang La – Leh

Day 16 – Spare Day at Leh

Day 17 – Spare Day at Leh

Day 18 – Flying from Leh to Kolkata via Delhi

The map Harsh and Aarti had prepared is simply invaluable and to my knowledge the best map that is available for anyone wants to visit this area. Please refer to the map below to understand the route plan properly. Thanks Harsh and Aarti again for this wonderful effort and you were the inspiration of our trip.