Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 1:

So many times we have read the advice and even advised others to make sure that he/she doesn’t land up in Leh on Sunday and Govt Holidays as permit won’t be available to travel. Somehow in such a hurry we missed that point, it was a long weekend and we understood DC office would be closed for next 3 days. Even Regzin was not hoping much on that situation, but suddenly I thought of opening the Leh website to see if I could get any contact. Landlines / Office no. won’t work as it was holiday, only hope was mobile, first few either gone unanswered or switched off. Finally got hold of PA to DC and explained her about our situation and in winter ladakh when you have a fixed date of departure, have even fewer days of good weather, loosing a day is significant and loosing 3 days mean loosing the whole trip almost. She was kind, listen to us and spoken to ADC on our behalf and even shared ADC’s personal mobile with us. We called and pleaded him for the permits, finally it was decided that though it was a holiday, we would submit our documents to Chowkidar of DC Office and ADC would come sometime on next day conveniently and got those signed and then Chowkidar would stamp those from office before handing over to us. We did exactly the same and as Sanjay mentioned luckily got the permits on time even without paying the wild life conservation fees (Which is significantly increased this year) as the office was actually closed. So the trip surely started with good luck.

We started our day by submitting our documents to the Chowkidar and started our journey towards Chilling where road ends and trek starts for Chadar. The beauty of Ladakh in winter is simply can not be expressed in words, better we stick to snaps.

Stok Kangri from Leh in a winter Morning:

Freezing yet flowing Indus:

Winter Ladakh, so fascinating:

Magnetic Hill on Leh – Kargil Road:

Road from Sangam towards Chilling (Zanskar is frozen in left):

Magical Zanskar frozen completely:

The Road Continues by the side of Zanskar:

Zanskar river magical water through a fish like opening from the Chadar:

Chadar is formed hard and strong:

Magical Zanskar River:

So clear the water, you can the stones in river bed even after it’s flowing so powerfully:

Standing on Chadar is always a dream:

Chadar was so thick here, we couldn’t even put a dent by throwing big stones from top:

Chadar is being formed here, see still the bluish water is visible below the ice layer:

Sangam from Zanskar side (Indus coming from Right)

We returned to Leh in afternoon and first thing we did was visiting the Chowkidar in DC Office and fortunately we got our signed permit ready. So now we are ready to explore some more interesting areas.

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Spituk Monastery:

A look at India’s own grand canyon, on the way from Upashi to Chumathang:

The lovely scenery:

Indus water stream became so narrow, rest are frozen:

On the way to Mahe Bridge:

Mahe Bridge, note Indus is completely frozen now:

Sumdo Village:

Frozen Tso Kiagar:

Frozen Tso Moriri:

The amazing road with later afternoon sun:

Chumathang to Mahe Bridge beside Frozen Indus:

All white, can you differentiate the road, the river (Indus) and the big sandy stretches? (All who visited Ladakh can try guessing the location)

Where Diesel Frozen on the run:

Amazing Vista:

At Noyoma:

Ocean of Ice:

Ice Age Returns:

Removing dangerous black ice from road:

Mesmerizing Winter Ladakh:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Time Frozen in a perfect White Out – Introduction

Next: Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

Ladakh in Winter – Time Frozen in a Perfect White Out – Introduction

May 26, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

What is the best time to visit Ladakh, the answer even 3 years back was July to September. But it kept changing with time, 2 years back it was May to October, a year back even between April to December. So we thought why shouldn’t we extend it little further, how the Pangong Tso ‘s perfect blue would be, how the remote Changthang would be, how the passes like Chang La would be, how mighty Indus would look like in winter. Only one thing could answer, a trip in winter but how is it possible to make a trip in winter that too in Ladakh? Day’s maximum and minimum temperature both would be in minus, very few hotels would be operational, the place is completely landlocked and depends on aerial connection for long 5/6 months. But then to get all the answers, we have to go there.

We thought of doing Chadar this year and booked air tickets for Jan end to Leh sometimes last year August. Then in December as usual we understood our other commitments won’t allow us to take off during that time and finally we cancelled the trek. But hoping on hope, that some miracles might happen, we didn’t cancel the flights. First time in my life miracle happened and 3 of us took a decision to go for a Ladakh trip in winter in almost 24 hours notice.

What happened next would be best described by snaps, let’s roll it on:

Aerial View:

Semi Frozen Indus:

Indus and Zanskar meets at Nimmu:

Chadar formed on Zanskar River:

Golden Sunrise:

On the way to Chang La:

Near Chang La Top:

Frozen Water body towards Tangtse:

Completely Frozen Pangong Tso – A Dream Comes True:

See the strength of frozen ice, you can easily drive your Scorpio on the Lake:

Shakti in evening:

Painting on a white Canvas – A Cloudy day in Leh:

Nimmu during snowfall:

Scorpio on Kargil – Leh Road : Almost zero visibility but whatever you see is White except the Car:

Magical Indus managing its flow even in harshest winter:

The breath taking views:

Near Khaltse:

Snow scape:

Entering Dha:

Locals of Dha:

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

Ladakh – Journey Ends at Leh and Flight Back Home

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

7th and 8th October:

Full rest at Kidar, a GH run by Mr. Angchuk who works for All India Radio and his wife and son Jigme who works for Jet Airways. The GH is highly recommended for stay with nice garden and clean and spacious rooms within 800 mtrs from market. Not a busy place and you can enjoy the unhindered view of Stok Kangri from the terrace. The family is very good host and they are expanding a new block which is yet to be ready completely. Jigme helped me to block right hand windows for my return Leh-Del flight in Jet which was otherwise not possible as Jet doesn’t allow web check in for PNRs with kids.

The garden at Kidar GH:

The Apple tree at Kidar GH:

Regzin and his machine, without him the trip was not possible:

9th October:

Took a brilliant flight back to Delhi and got some nice shots of Padum Valley and Nan Kun peak and few glacier shots from top. After a 3 hours break, boarded a flight for Kolkata and landed at my city just short of 4.00pm, outside temperature was 31 and relative humidity was 90 plus, that’s the back to reality from otherwise a dream.

Leaving a dream called “Ladakh”:

Below the Indus Valley:

Rewinding the memories from the Aircraft, far away, Nun-Kun Massifs:

The awesome Zanskar Valley landlocked completely with clear 3 forks, the one to the farthest side go towards Kargil, Note the Nun-Kun at far end, the two forks at near end, left one going towards Darcha and right one towards Leh via Zangla:

Flying over the Great Himalayan Range, perpetual snowline:

One unnamed glacier on the Great Himalayan Range:

Previous: Ladakh – Tsomoriri, Tso Kar, Tanglang La, Leh

The End

Ladakh – Tsomoriri, Tso Kar, Tanglang La, Leh

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

6th October:

We started the day little lazily around 9.15, the maximum late start we had in whole trip. Took a stop closer to lake but again it was odd for photography, in morning sun was at eastern sky and we were at western end. Crossed Tso Kiagar soon and reached Sumdo by 11.00am. At Tsokar had some tea and first time during our trip got some clouds in the sky. We knew weather would deteriorate from 7th onwards and had a detour of few km towards More Plane and then finally took a U turn and head towards Leh. Leh – Manali highway in this side was just ok but we found lots of road works being done in every 200 mtrs and that caused significant delays in taking detours. We hit Tanglangla by 2.45pm but again stopped for 30 mins for road work. Finally reached Leh by 6.00pm and straight away head to Kidar GH again. Thanked God for completing an ambitious trip and it was blissful 2 days of rest at Leh that was badly due.

Kid was super excited in the tent:

Korzok Village:

Tsomoriri – at Korzok:

Tso Kiagar:

Sumdo Village:

Road towards Tso Kar:

Tso kar:

Tso Kar Village:

Nomads at Tso Kar Village:

More Planes:

Tanglang la Top:

Tanglangla Descent towards Leh:

Road towards Leh:

Previous: Ladakh – Kyun Tso, Salsal La, Chumur to Tsomoriri

Next: Ladakh – Journey Ends at Leh and Flight Back Home

Ladakh – Kyun Tso, Salsal La, Chumur to Tsomoriri

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

5th October:

We were ready with another adventure filled day ahead of us. Harsh was of great help with details of this stretch but we were still skeptic with if we really could manage to find our roads to Tsomoriri via Chumur. We started early by 8.30am on that day and plan was to take Hanle – Kyun Tso – Salsal la and then reaching Chumur and tracing back the path to Tee joint as mentioned in Harsh’s map and back to Tso moriri via Charchaghan la. We had few concerns, if we could manage Charchaghan la if it was still not blasted, if we could find the road without any GPS/Compass and if we turn back, could we climb up Salsal la as it was pretty steep as reported in Harsh’s log. We had plans to take the Kyun Tso – Nidar – Nyoma route as backup if we couldn’t find/ manage Tsomoriri route, but then we knew we didn’t have the names of Nyoma / Mahe/ Sumdo mentioned in our permits. Not having much choice left, we had to start, only hope our luck, it was surprisingly favouring us all through the trip.

We came to main road from observatory GH and took a right straight away to the village (left would take you towards monastery and the junction of Photila/Loma roads). Soon after crossing the village we found a lot of black neck cranes and it was a pleasure to see them from so close. Soon it seems we were entering a no man’s land, only directions are the poles as Harsh mentioned in his log. Few extremely difficult stretch of washed out areas and we were into a desolate Himalayan terrain with no soul around. In just 2 hours with 45km of drive we discovered Kyun Tso. It was a pleasing site. We stopped for photo breaks and just before this we found a track in our right towards Nyoma. We headed straight and in another 6 km we found the dramatic descent of Salsal la. It is a frightening sight, God knows how Harsh climbed it up from other side but best part was the road now blasted and the new road’s gradient was much smoother and in case we had to trace back the route, we could climb it up again. We gone down below and after crossing a small Nalla, we suddenly lost the pole markers. We tried our best to find the correct route, we couldn’t. Our only option was either to follow tyre tracks forward or to be back via Nyoma. We trusted our lucks and praying hard but decided to go forward. Soon we were brought into a large green pastures of land with many sheep grazing. We were little hopeful with signs of lives around. Kiangs were roaming and big snow peaks all around, a true remote Changthang feel is what you would get here. After another 10km, we found a place towards right and identified it as an ITBP camp. It was the Chumur ITBP and we saw the Nulla without Bridge at right too. We were already at the side of the Nulla where Chumur village is and realized the actual road was coming from other side of Nalla which we lost in the middle after crossing Salsal la. We visited the monastery which was behind a mountain and a small pass. Lamas were friendly and they showed us mummy and the cut off hands of witch those were the special attractions here. A new road was built below the monastery towards LAC mainly for military movement and villagers reiterated Chinese incursions happened there on 25th August. It was another 12km from the monastery where the Chinese army destroyed our unused bunkers. We had quick visit to the monastery and when asked about the road to Tsomoriri we got mixed answers. We heard road to Tsomoriri was in a very nice shape but when we asked about the point from where Tsomoriri and Salsal la road bifurcates, the monk answered calmly “You can’t manage to find it without a GPS” I was shocked but then he said, I had to cross the Nalla towards ITBP Camp and then take the straight road to right and ensure I shouldn’t divert towards Salsal la but neither of us had an idea how to ensure that. He mentioned if you could cross the Nalla, you would almost reach Tsomoriri, I asked quickly what’s the problem in crossing the Nalla, he said it’s difficult to cross after 2.00pm. It was already 2.00pm by then and we hurriedly proceeded towards the ITBP. From top what we saw was not encouraging, the place where the tyre tracks could be seen was at least 30 ft wide and it was flowing in full rage. We couldn’t guess the depth even as it’s appeared to be deep with blue clear water but so turbulent we couldn’t see the anything below. First time we felt we had to retreat here. Regzin tried in various ways to guess the depth but of no use. Honestly we were scared as retracing the whole road means uncertainty as we didn’t know how to go to the Tsomoriri road from Salsal la. Regzin aligned the Scorpio with the tyre marks and he was clearly nervous too. We gone back 50 mtrs and then he gave the final push, for few seconds we clearly felt we were drifting and then in the momentum we came to the other side, unbelievable experience but we crossed and in the whole trip we haven’t scared more. Regzin took a break to check if water gone into any filter/engine but fortunately it was all okay. We started our onward journey through Chumur ITBP, no one there asked any questions and we soon hit a deserted stretch with sands all around. The poles appeared again but the sands were unbelievably sticky. With every 200 mtrs we had to stop the car and clean the wind screen, rear windows, mirrors to get the minimum visibility. Every time we were stopping we were risking of getting stuck too as sand was too soft. It was a horrible time and worse was we didn’t know if we were in right track, only hope was the poles were still there. Soon beside the poles we found some red flags as markers too, running almost parallel but that was adding confusion, couldn’t understand what were those markers for. Soon we realized that’s the alignment of new road that is coming from Tsomoriri and we were overjoyed to realize that we were in right track. After few more km we started finding the new roads approaching to Chumur. It was simply a 4 lane highway and surely looks much better than current Leh-Manali or Leh-Srinagar highway. With a pleasant surprise we took the new road and it was still an unpaved road but blasted and properly leveled one. Soon we understood Charchaghan La was properly blasted and we reached the top soon. Once descending we got some amazing view of Tsomoriri which one can’t get from Korzok end. Couldn’t take snaps well as we were at eastern end of lake and sun was on western sky. Finally we reached Korzok by 5.00pm but surprisingly found the whole village was packed with Bengali tourists, we were hit by Puja rush for first time in our trip, forced to get the last tent available in only tented accommodation there at a bargain price of 2000/- for double with kid. But we were told they would wind up on 6th and if we wanted to stay further we needed to find some alternatives. The night was absolutely chilling and windy and we decided to move to Leh on next day as accommodation was really difficult to manage, so late in the season. I had 2 backup days then initially planned for Leh – Manali but after such a hectic trip we decided take complete rest and then to fly out from Leh.

The car odo reading was as follows:

Hanle : 844
Kyun Tso: 891
Salsal La (17200ft) : 897
Chumur: 933
North end of lake at Bridge: 010
Korzok: 020

Black Neck Cranes near Hanle Village:

Hanle Village:

Smart Kid at Hanle:

Kyun Tso

The Dramatic Descent from Salsal la towards Chumur, blasted road at left and old road at right:

After this we lost the pole markers and tyre tracks lead us to a grassland:

Only living being apart from us were these Kiangs:

Here we identified Chumur ITBP and realized the actual road was on other side of the river, we somehow came here by loosing the actual road but now after Chumur we had to cross this:

Chumur Monastery:

The mummy of Lama at Chumur, the one we saw at Giu in Spiti was more realistic looking, here they painted the mummy:

We had to cross this Demon to reach Tsomoriri from Chumur, it was very scaring:

It was really big and fierce one:

Absolute remote Changthang:

Now holding the nerve and following the tyre marks were key, we had no GPS or Compass, which one must carry here:

At last we got the blasted new roads to Tsomoriri via Charchagan La, it was a nice wide road:

Amazing Tsomoriri all the way towards Korzok from Charchaghan La:

Previous: Ladakh – Merak, Chusul, Hanle, Koyul and Demchok, the last point on LAC between India and China

Next: Ladakh – Tsomoriri, Tso Kar, Tanglang La, Leh

Ladakh – Merak, Chusul, Hanle, Koyul and Demchok, the last point on LAC between India and China

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

03rd October:

Today we have plan to reach Hanle through Chusul, another big day ahead and we still have awesome weather with us with no sign of any cloud anywhere in the sky. Hanle, most of us are aware having 3rd highest observatory in world situated at close to 15K ft height, Hanle was chosen for the telescope site among 6 candidate sites across India because of its clear weather after a rigorous weather analysis was done on cloud cover, relative humidity, wind speed and direction, solar radiation, rain/snow fall. The observatory having a 2m optical infrared telescope and 7 Gamma Ray telescopes (known as Hagar Telescope) was inaugurated in 2001, remotely controlled from Bangalore through Satellite Link. They usually open the telescope dome between 5.30pm to 6.30pm (of course changed seasonally with length of day and night)and cool the 2m telescope CCD with liquid nitrogen around 5.30pm. So if you want to catch those actions, you have to reach observatory by 5.00pm. We planned accordingly and started quite early around 8.00am. Two more families were there with us at Spangmik on that night, both were hit hard by cold and altitude left early for Leh and from this point onward we became the sole car to proceed ahead. The journey beside the lake was amazing and first village you would be crossing is Man and then Merak, where IIA is seriously considering to come up with another observatory soon. Both the villages are extremely scenic and picturesque. Few homestays are available too and one can seriously consider staying a few nights here as Spangmik now a days become quite commercial. My kid was so upset once she understands that the brilliant lake actually gone into China after a few km from Merak, she promised not to touch any Chinese toys for next few days This is the place where the terrain started becoming flat and you would certainly realize you are very close to plateau where you would find vast flat lands at an height of 4000+ mtrs with not any high mountains around. We were actually at Tibetan Plateau here. We met the first group of Kiangs (Tibetan Wild Ass) there and without wasting time took couple of snaps. The road or the trail approaches to the next big place enroute that is Chusul where your permits would be checked. After crossing Chusul, the road approaches to a 14500 ft pass Tsaga la with China in your left side and you would find lots of army outposts at your left on top of mountains, Regzin being an ex army was showing us many army installations at left which in a civilian’s eye you might have missed out. He was posted on many of these OP for months and explaining the hardship and difficulties in sustaining there for even few days. We started observing how the colors around the mountains started changing from here onwards. You can see so many various shades of colors on the mountains that’s probably unique in this part of India. First village crossing the pass would be Tsaga, it’s quite a big village but surprisingly you won’t find any shop here, not sure why though. Again Regzin comes very handy, he straight away approached one home there with few packets of Maggie and requested to prepare those for us. The people there or rather in remote of part of Ladakhs are amazing, always smiling and surely would greet you with a smiling Juley. They prepared Maggie for us and before that welcomed us with tea and biscuits in those typical ladakhi style dining rooms. Amazing experience it was. We requested a lot to accept some money but they politely refused to take any, even Regzin couldn’t manage them to take that, we were touched by Ladakhi hospitality. After Tsaga, you would start finding more green and reason is nothing but you are approaching Loma bend and there you are meeting mighty Indus again. Loma is another place where permits would be checked and this is where they asked us while going to Koyul from Hanle if we take the direct route or route through Loma, these words got registered and I realized there was a direct route possible from Hanle to Koyul. Just before Loma bridge, a diversion of road goes towards Nyoma/Mahe/Chumathang/Sumdo and just after crossing the bridge, road again diverts, one fork goes towards Hanle and other towards Demchok via Koyul. Our first destination was Hanle and the observatory, so we took first fork and it’s now completely paved road of 50km till Hanle from Loma Bend. That’s a welcome break from unpaved road that started from Lukung onwards and continued till Tasaga. The valley goes through Rongho and the vivid colors of the mountains, Kiangs running across the vast emptiness and the complete desolate ambience would surely touch you. We reached Hanle well in time and checked into the observatory guest house. Hanle has very few accommodation options including the observatory GH which is undoubtedly not only the best in Hanle but probably best in whole Changthang with 24 hours power backup, Water heaters and room heaters available. Getting accommodations in observatory GH is not easy, You won’t get any room on spot even if its vacant, you can’t even secure it from IIA, Leh Office. It’s possible only by establishing communication with IIA, Bangalore office, would be helpful if you know someone in IIA, ISRO, TIFR etc. The other alternatives there are PWD GH and few private home stay. We had a cup of tea at GH before we proceeded to observatory. The CCD cooling with liquid nitrogen from so close distance is an experience. The views of Hanle Monastery from top of the Mt. Saraswati was amazing. The moment sun goes down, watching the night sky is simply an awesome experience from here. I can’t remember watching so many stars in my life and the milky way was so clearly visible across 180 degree over your head. From observatory GH, you can’t make a call but you have a V Sat internet over there which was again a lifeline and I checked the weather from here, decided not to take Manali route with the Western Disturbance hitting the region from 7th October onwards. So I have a few extra days and you know my permit bears the name of Koyul, so all was set for next day, only question remains if there is a straight road to Koyul from Hanle or we need to go through Loma. Regzin couldn’t throw much lights but locals confirmed there were 2 roads to Demchok from here, one was extremely long but open through out the year but goes beside the border most of the times. We don’t have much hope on that as we have to come back on same day to Hanle for night stay, also being a border roads we were sure to be stopped without the names of the places properly mentioned in permits. The second road we heard was a new road just being built across the mountains and it should go towards Koyul but locals can only confirm the road is through till top from Hanle end, no one have any idea how the road is on other end.

At Spangmik:

Amazing Fall Colors:

Curious Kiangs:

Approaching Chusul:

Rezangla War Memorial:

Tsaga La:

If you by chance go left of this road, you may easily land up in China, going close through the disputed LAC from Chusul to Loma:

Hanle Village from Mt. Saraswati where the observatory is located:

Hagar Telescopes at Hanle, straight from a Sci-fi movie:

Hanle Observatory:

4th October

We decided to go for Koyul already and we knew the roads are not known, so thought of leaving as early as we could. Observatory GH serves breakfast at 8.00am earliest which would be too late for us, so we packed some leftover sabji of last night and the caretaker prepared few rotis for us in the morning and it’s 7.30am in morning on 4th we hit the road. Our first destination was BRO Camp near Hanle Monastery to get more information on road. We found a road sign near monastery showing Photi La at 28km and Photile at 55km in the opposite direction of Loma/Rango. Spoken to BRO Camp and they said Hanle division is responsible for building up roads till Top of the mountain which is Photi La and the descent on other end is being built by Koyul division and they have no idea on road in other side. Only thing we confirmed from locals was this side of the mountain was more rocky and on the other side soil content was more and ascent would be difficult from other end. So we made up our mind and decided to ascent from Hanle end and in case we don’t find the route we would have to turn back. The road was paved and the best part was out of 28 km to top, 18 km is tarred as we were informed. The ascent was completely desolate as expected and extremely steep, it was steeper than Wari La ascent. When we reached 18km, the tar road ends and found a BRO Camp there, spoken to the people there, they confirmed road was blasted till top and we could go till that. That’s another 10 km, completely of loose stones and boulders and a very steep climb, we realized we have gone up significantly in those few km, the Hanle observatory was clearly visible at a distance much lower height. Few more switch backs and we reached the top, Photi la is the top and the height shown as staggering 18124 ft. We were very happy to be on the top, taken few snaps, the Hanle valley can be seen from top but you can’t see anything on other side as it was obstructed by mountain range, amazing scenery. After so many days in the region we still have some breathlessness at the top, it was a great height, no two words about it. After sometime at the top, thoughts of descent started coming into our mind, now the problem starts, we were looking at the descent and it’s just blasted the mountain and nothing else have been done, now going back all through to Hanle was risky with so much loose rocks and sharp boulders for first 10km with steep descent and that means we won’t be having any time for Koyul / Demchok. Now we are in a precarious position, we understood we had to take a risk whichever way we take, going back to Hanle means known road but missing Demchok, going forward means unknown road but may be reaching Demchok is a possibility and from top we could see the blasting itself was not completed after some turns, but as Hanle division of BRO said they are not building the road, logically we concluded that definitely some road exists till bottom else roads can’t be blasted at the top in this end. With just that hope we started our downward journey towards Koyul Valley. It was a bone chilling experience, after a few turn we understood we are moving just in momentum as it was no road practically and as usual the photography completely gone out of my mind. All of us were tensed and we were literally removing stones from road in every 10/20 mtrs to avoid underbody damage of the car and making our roads. Time seems to be too long and absolutely no other lives could be seen anywhere. We were extremely lucky as the weather remained dry for almost 2 weeks then else the muddy stretch we faced in between was impossible to cross had it been raining in last 2/3 days. We saw lots of dozers around and that’s only hope as if someone is working there. After almost 2 hours we could find a BRO truck at a much lower height coming slowly, the first encouragement in almost 2 hours of downhill drive. We knew Photile was just 27km from top but didn’t understand what it was as none in Hanle had any idea on that location. We found another road diverting from main road towards down adding more confusion but gradient of the road was even more and we decided to be on the earlier road and tried our luck. We met the truck after almost another 45 mins of arduous descent. The BRO people assured us we are on right track but surprised why we took this road as it’s not open for cars and even locals don’t take this route for its killer gradient. Its there we knew the other road towards down was old road used during 1962 Indo China war and now abandoned. This road is part of the new roads being built along the borders of changthang and ladakh. Photile is point where this road touches the road from Loma – Koyul and it’s southern extension. I am not sure where the road towards south was going but BRO mentioned there is an ITBP check post towards right at Tee Joint at Photile. One can read the BRO procurement document below to understand few new roads from Photile – Demchok (Distance shown just 24km means it would be across another pass straight crossing the mountains), Photila – Chisumla – Zursar (a 80km stretch most likely the one towards southwards) are being built in these regions. I spoken to couple of BRO personnel and other locals who works for Indian Intelligence. What I understand India is planning a road network, though little late to follow what China has already done on the other side of LAC. Tsomoriri – Chumur – Salsal la – Hanle – Photile – Demchok – Koyul – Loma – Tsaga – Spangmik – Tangtse – Durbuk – Shyok – DBO – Saserla – Sasoma – Nubra is one of the possible link across the LAC.

BRO Procurement Document mentioning the new Roads

Article on Ladakh by Romesh Bhattacharji

The map in Wikimapia showing the roads quite correctly between Hanle – Photile – Koyul – Demchok.

Once at Photile we took the left (Northwards) towards Koyul and in another half an hour we reached Koyul village and as we approached from south side, we escaped both Dungti and Fukche check post on our way. We found no shops in Koyul open and finally again Regzin was saviour to get some tea managed from a local house. This is the place where we had to take a call, should we go for army permit from Fukche, we knew we had to answer a lot of questions for not coming through normal route via Loma and also it would be time taking and we may be declined for permit to Demchok. But ideally you need to arrange an army permit from Fukche airbase for visiting Demchok. We discussed a bit and then took a daring yet risky decision to move towards Demchok without any army permit. Regzin was confident and he just told us to mention as his guest. Demchok is a village that got partitioned during 1962 war and a part of it is now in China and rest in India. What I understood later, people from other villages do visit Demchoks to their relatives and army normally doesn’t interfere to the cars going straight to village. Regzin mentioned we can’t stop for any photography as everyone watching our cars from OP and a slightest doubt could prove costly, so all photographs had to be taken from moving cars, so be it, only prayer was we should be able to reach Demchok. We took almost a sharp right turn before the Fukche base towards Demchok and my goodness the colors of mountains were absolutely brilliant, looks some kids have used their crayons to color them, you can see patches of all possible colors in those ranges. Both sides army OP were present and we were driving through Indus basin which is otherwise a desert with bad lands like Rann of Kutch. The feelings hard to describe in words, it’s terribly dusty with a tremendous hot sun all through. There was an amazing flat land of 5km which seems as if you are driving through a runway, simply magical and Regzin mentioned in army the stretch is known as “Chandigarh Airport”. We reached Demchok and there is a post there, we were scared now but luck was with us, it was unmanned for then, here one road goes up towards army camp and other runs in same height towards village. Regzin straight away drove to village and as a veteran of 1 year there, he knew many villagers, we again had nice rounds of milk and butter tea and Maggie there. The Rotis and Sabji we were carrying from Hanle was there too for a nice lunch. It was a great lunch sitting at the Village and in between there is a Nulla of 50 ft and on other side we could see Chinese army watching our every move. We gone to the dead end of the road in Indian side to the hot spring and spoken to our army too. They didn’t ask much apart from why we were wasting time there during Dussera. They were very nice persons, offered us tea, biscuits and my kid was offered an energy drink as well. Regzin introduced us as his guests and himself as an ex army of Ladakh Scouts. The road in Chinese side was much wider and better and gone beyond we could see into those mountains where as our road ends at this hot spring. It was finally done and in a much better way than reporting to army camp and submitting your camera there and then escorted by army to visit these same places though not at all a recommended way. Thanks to Regzin for his army background and of course our luck, it was possible. We started our return journey soon around 2.30 in afternoon knowing we would be extremely late to reach Hanle. Return was all through the magical mountains and Indus following you all through. We were not stopped at Fukche Post and we straight away leave Koyul and decided to back through normal route as Ascending Fotula from Koyul end was simply not possible without a 4X4. We reached Dhungti and Regzin somehow managed the check post guy, obviously he asked how we gone into without entering into the post. Regzin managed that and we started from Dhungti around 5.30 and after crossing Loma at 6.00pm we got the tarred road again which we left 10km before Photula Top. We reached Hanle at 7.10 finally with extreme tiredness but with a big satisfaction.

The Car Odo reading was as follows:

Hanle – 569
Fotula- 591 (28km but we took couple of short cuts)
Fotule 618
Karle (a small village) – 626
Koyul – 634
Demchok (Hot Spring) – 677
Koyul – 720
Dhungti – 764
Loma – 780
Hanle Observatory GH – 837

Hanle Valley and Road to Top from Photila:

The height may show its lower than Khardung La but this is most certainly most difficult pass I have ever encountered in India, the approach is very steep and almost no road and no soul around with very less oxygen, this is pass that would beat your heart faster for sure.

Photi La Top:

The Road to South towards the border, an ITBP Post is there:

Truck Approaches on the dusty Road:

Koyul Village:

Towards Demchok with colorful Mountains and nice Meadows:

Note the Chinese Roads at the other side of Indus clearly visible:

Demchok Village and at the backdrop Chinese Watch Tower:

JK State Transport Bus coming to Koyul once in 15 days :

Amazing Colors of Mountains in setting sun:

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Next: Ladakh – Kyun Tso, Salsal La, Chumur to Tsomoriri

Ladakh – Journey to Pangong crossing Wari La & Chang La

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

01st October:

Our luck with weather was still continuing as we were in our tenth day of the trip and weather would play a crucial role for this day as we were to take Wari la – Changla route to reach Pangong from Nubra. Deskit – Khalsar was in normal route from where route towards Agham diverts and we gone through a completely desolate 31km drive where we were the only car. Excellent fun journey with Shyok river and lots of photo stops we reached Agham and here again two roads diverts, one through Wari La – Changla – Durbuk (total 134 km with 2 high passes) and other through Agham – Shyok – Durbuk route which doesn’t cross any pass and distance is only 66km. We enquired and a local portrayed a horrible picture of Agham – Shyok route and told the road was absolutely cut off in multiple places and we couldn’t reach there. We spoken to a BRO camp nearby and they said it’s under 93 RCC who owns that stretch and their HQ was at Shyok and they don’t have much idea on that part of the road but mentioned their supplies which earlier used to come through that road now stopped and currently brought through Wari La. Indication was clear that road was not through. We started our journey to Tangyar, the last village before the steep ascent of Wari La starts. This road was really desolate and the steepness would be hard to ignore, the lonely Scorpio was trying hard with snows around the road, the water source and nallas were semi frozen and a few yaks around are the only thing you could see apart from tall mountains around. We reached the top after almost a 40 km drive from Agham. The road was tarred all through and descent to Shakti was in even better condition. We were overjoyed after crossing Wari La and took a tea break in Shakti, a nice valley looks so beautiful with fall colors. Soon we started our ascent to Changla and reached the top without much difficulties and roads are superb from Shakti towards Changla and same remains good till Lukung where you reach the Pangong lake. At Durbuk, Regzin got diesels as we had a long route to take without any option of fuel. Here we spoke to 93 RCC on Agham – Shyok route and they told us categorically that road was not through but considering October water level, Scorpio could manage that road but then it was too late to utilize this great piece of information. Tangtse was very close in another 9km and we have enough time to approach the Pangong but we decided to take a break at Tangtse as it was 1000 ft lower than Spangmik and would help us to acclimatize at Changthang though we were already well acclimatized by then. But later we found our decision was good as we had light headache and suddenly feeling quite cold in that night, it’s highly recommended to stay a night at Tangtse specially if someone comes from lower height of Nubra directly. The best place to stay was Dothguling and luckily we got it completely vacant though people didn’t get any place to stay here for next few days, courtesy Puja Rush. Again Regzin managed the nice double room for Rs. 500/- here, offseason and Regzin’s bargaining skill was a lethal combo.

Khalsar to Agham with Shyok following us:

Tanjiyar Village, last village before ascent to Warila:

Approaching Wari La, Rivers started freezing down at that height:

At Wari La Top:

Descent to Shakti:

Amazing Fall Colors at Shakti Valley:

Shakti Valley from Top, straight one towards Warila and right one towards Changla:

Towards Chang La:

At Chang La Top:

Tangtse Valley from Top:

02nd October:

We were little skeptic on the accommodation options at Spangmik and wanted to reach early there to evaluate the options and avail the best possible option what we could get. We already were informed most of the GH at Spangmik were closed for the season. Started around 8.00 in the morning from Tangtse and enroute took some time to spend with the marmots who are quite habituated in human interaction unlike the population we found in Zanskar. Some quick photo breaks and we are at Lukung where the famous Pangong Lake starts. With lots of snaps available across web and some Bollywood movies are shot, Pangong is quite a common name to all of us now but I felt a drastic change since I first time saw this heavenly lake in 2003. I remember we were only car in Sep begin for the 6 hours we spent in Lukung that time but this time at 10.00 am we found shops, tents, so many people around and lots of cars and that too in October. Hope the lake would survive along its fragile ecosystem under this tremendous onslaught of mass tourism. The famous 3-Idiots shooting actually started in Tsomoriri around middle of Sep 2008 and after a day shoot started, the whole region snowed out completely and that year the Sep snow was so heavy that thousands of people got stuck across Leh-Manali highway for 4/5 days. The crew cancelled the shooting and they came back next year (2009) July in Pangong as administration didn’t permit them to shoot at Tsomoriri during July as it was breeding time for migratory birds. That’s the way Pangong came into fame. The crew stayed at Dothguling GH in Tangtse for few days and they took snaps of all the actors/actresses at their GH, having lunch / dinner at their dining room and now have kept those snaps all across the GH.I was told by them that Aamir Khan was happy in this postponing of the shoot as in new schedule he got an opportunity to shoot the last scene at the fag end of shooting which was not possible if it would have been done as per original schedule in the beginning. Nothing surprising from a perfectionist like him though. We spent some time at Lukung though it was absolutely crowded and then moved towards Spangmik crossing few more shooting spots all of them are famous with the movie. At Spangmik the JKTDC GH which is now leased to locals were empty but they said they were winding up. After some requests they agreed to let us in and we got the nice double room just beside lake with attached toilets at 2500/- including all meals. Not really cheap but definitely cheaper than its actual price of 4500/- I was not really keen to bargain here as almost all the GH were closed down and we felt the chill last night at Tangtse itself which was 1000 ft lower. Checked in there, had hot tea and gone to lake side soon after. Here there was no crowd and you can enjoy the lake of your own. Great feelings to see the various shades of blue in the backdrop of brown and red mountains. Enjoyed the lake till evening but we started feeling the chilling wind across the lake as the time progresses and got an idea what to face in the night. The night was really cold and probably coldest in our whole trip and we found in morning the waters in buckets and pipes were frozen.

Friendly Marmots on the way to Lukung:

Magical Pangong Tso:

At Spangmik, lake was belong to us, very few tourist and the blue with magical fall colors:

JKSRTC Bus at Spangmik, frequency once in a week:

The lovely kid at Spangmik:

Previous: Ladakh – Nubra Valley: Hundar, Turtuk, Deskit

Next: Ladakh – Merak, Chusul, Hanle, Koyul and Demchok, the last point on LAC between India and China

Ladakh – Nubra Valley: Hundar, Turtuk, Deskit

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

29th September:

We started around 8.00am as 9.00 was the start of movement for Army Convoy towards Khardungla Pass. Our destination for the day was Nubra Valley and more specifically Hundar. Regzin was waiting with his Black Scorpio JK-10-2772 and it was the start of my second part of the trip. As we started relatively early and it was fag end of the season, roads were free from traffic and we found ice and even some small frozen waterfall enroute. We reached Khradungla top pretty quickly and didn’t face much of a problem as we were acclimatized by that time quite well. K-Top is a nice place to view Zanskar Range in your South and Karakoram Range in your North while you stand on top of the Ladakh Range. The road between South Pullu to North Pullu is pathetic but rest of the roads are quite good. We got down to Khalsar and then with few photo stops reached Deskit where we taken our lunch. We liked Snow Leopard GH at Hundar for its nice location and ambience and Regzin bargained it for 600/- for a nice double room with running hot waters. Brilliant deal and not only here, he bargained for me in every guest house in local language including when I was shopping in Leh market and saved at least Rs. 5000/- for me in his good negotiation skill during the whole trip. Late afternoon was kept for Camel Safari ride and it was really a fun for the kid. My kid surprisingly found her class mate there and was overjoyed (Both parents were surprised too as we never expected this and of course both took a week off before the school closes for Puja holidays without informing the real intention to anyone.) Moral is be prepared to find Bengalis in any part of the world during Puja Vacation

Looking at Leh from the road to Khardung La:

Zanskar Range going West to East at South side of Leh:

Frozen Water Fall on the way to Khardungla

At K-Top:

Local at Khalsar:

Shyok river would be with you in most part of Nubra Valley:

Towards Deskit:

Towards Hundar, crossing the Sand dunes:

Snow Leopard GH at Hundar, very nicely located:

Hundar:

She is happy with Sands:

30th September:

Another sunny day to start with and we were all ready by 8.00 in the morning to start for Turtuk, I was excited as this was a new addition to my earlier Ladakh experience. Roads are excellent all through and Shyok would be with you through out the journey. A stretch of road across right bank of the river now abandoned as it was land slide prone and new alignment was made from left bank. We crossed the bridge before Turtuk where our permits were checked and that was the border earlier with Pakistan before the war of 1971. During war of 1971, Turtuk came under Indian Control and the main difference you would find in Turtuk from rest of Ladakh, it’s in much lower height around 8000 ft (even lower than Kargil/Sonmarg) and it’s Muslim dominated and culturally completely different from Ladakh. A village walk is a must here and you would be amazed by the greenery and agriculture you would find here. Turtuk had some home stay and 2 luxury tents that usually costs 3500 but was offering double tents for 2000 to us but we had no plan to stay at Turtuk. So had our lunch and drive back to Deskit. Deskit had a Govt initiated Internet facility with V-Sat connection, where I was relieved to see clear weather till 6th October. It was 7th onwards IMD was expecting a Western Disturbance to hit the region. I made up my mind not to venture for Leh-Manali drive and rather decided to explore more on Ladakh as Koyul/Chumur were all in my permits. I had enough time as I had a tickets for flying out of Leh on 9th October. This is actually the last place for me to check weather over internet before Hanle as next day I decided to take Wari La/Changla route rather than coming back to Leh again. Evening was spent in Deskit Monastery, The monastery was renovated a lot since my last visit and car now can go much higher as I remember almost a 45 mins hike to top last time when I visited this in 2003. Deskit Monastery was under Hindu influence earlier and you can still find deity of Mahakaal and Yamraj there in a temple. The valley view from top specially in morning and afternoon is brilliant. I wanted to stay at Sand Dune GH as that’s the one I stayed last time but unfortunately all the GH in Deskit was lacking support staff during that time and food was not available. Only GH that was still functioning was Olthang and we checked in there. Once again Regzin got a nice bargain for a double room with running water at Rs. 600/-. We decided to give Sumur – Panamik stretch a miss as we visited that part last time and didn’t find it much interesting and may be later if civilians would be allowed to Sasoma – Siachen or Saser La – DBO, we would try that route again

Road to Turtuk:

Shyok would be all along with you:

So Sweet:

Md. Ramjan at Turtuk, he was 23 years old when Turtuk came under control of India in 1971:

Kareena, as her name suggests, fond of posing for a snap unlike others:

We found these 4 inside the school building getting ready for the classes, so sweet they are:

Looking curiously from back:

Road is excellent, crossing Thoise Air Base:

Hundar Again:

Deskit Monastery:

Previous: Ladakh – Sankoo, Kargil to Leh

Next: Ladakh – Journey to Pangong crossing Wari La & Chang La

Ladakh – Sankoo, Kargil to Leh

May 25, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

27th September:

We started our day by visiting rock cut statue of 7 mtrs Maitreya Buddha of 7th Century at Kartse Khar village on the opposite side of Suru river from Sankhoo. Zainab, a local girl was very helpful in showing us the narrow walking path beside a stream towards the statue. Once we started from Sankhoo to Kargil, it was a welcome break from unpaved road and the surroundings were excellent with suru river flowing and the fall colors all around. We reached Kargil smoothly, refueled the Xylo and started moving towards Mulbek. In this stretch the road is narrow and one way and also blasting work was going on. We lost some time here before reaching Mulbek where we saw similar rock cut statue of Maitreya Buddha that we have seen earlier in day at Karshe Khar. The landscape, rock colors started changing and we clearly felt that we were approaching Ladakh once we crossed Mulbek towards Namikala and Fotula. Crossing Lamayuru through colorful rocks was a nice experience but I missed the Jilabi Road (Winding road of earlier years through top with much better views of surroundings). We had a very late lunch at Khaltse and when we approached Nimmu where river Zanskar and Indus meets, it was approaching dark. Reached at Leh around 7.00pm and straight away proceed to Kidar Guest House, Double bed and absolutely clean and spacious room and having a nice garden in Fort Road less than a km from market @ Rs. 700/- was a pure bliss.

Suru at Sankhoo:

Maitreya Buddha, Rock Cut Statue at Karshe Khar, just opposite side of Suru away from Sankhoo:

The magical innocence would surely touch you, she took us to the statue:

The palace of Karshe Khar kings, the statue was built during their time:

Sankoo – Kargil Road:

The amazing Fall Colors:

Divine Calmness:

Kargil Town, expanding:

Rock Cut Buddha Statue at Mulbek:

Happy Family, Happiness is oozing out in the smile, isn’t it?

Towards Fotula:

Lamayuru:

Moonscape:

28th September:

It was a big day and I had to get permits from DC office and I had few ambitious names in my mind. I reached there around 9.45am but didn’t find any official there. They came around 10.15am and mustering all my courage I submitted my papers in the front desk where I had the following list of places mentioned:

Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Wari La, Spangmik, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Dungti, Koyul, Hanle, Chumur, Kyun Tso, Lam Tso.

The clerk kept reading it for 5 mins and then said followings

1. They can’t issue permits mentioning so many places where army mainly controls over civil administration.
2. Wari La is not an official route and if anyone undertakes journey though that it’s entirely his / her own responsibility.

I told him, I was ready to meet DC/ADC but want to visit those places, they asked me to wait until their senior comes and reviews my application. I was prepared with the application letter, photocopies of I-Card and filled up Permit form, 2 copies of each were ready for submission. In another 10 mins the senior came, reviewed my application and without asking a single question he issued the permit by just removing Lam Tso (that Harsh anyway suggested me to remove), I had to pay total 720/- including forest dept fees and permit fees for 8 days. I was overjoyed but just after coming back I realized I messed up the permit by not mentioning Nyoma, Chumathang and Sumdo and there by made my route forced through Hanle-Chumur-Tsomoriri which might be avoided otherwise.

Next was to visit IIA, Leh office to submit a copy of permit which I was instructed to do before proceeding to IIA, Guest House at Hanle. That was done quickly as IIA’s Leh office was next to Kidar GH where I was staying. Rest of the day was used for some small shopping and an evening visit to Shanti Stupa to get a nice view of Leh. Weather was brilliant all through and it was still showing next one week clear and sunny in IMD’s forecast. Hoping to get another great week we wind up the day quickly.

Kidar Guest House: