Day 26:

We just felt how big a disaster could be in high mountains, when cyclone Philine after loosing its 80% of strength hit Everest region last night and snowed 3 meters in just an hour or so. We were sheltered in a concrete house but still the sound and strength of hail storm was nerve wrecking. The road (Friendship Highway) was closed and Everest Base camp was closed indefinitely. It was a shock to us as EBC was our one of the most sought after destination in whole trip but we heard from locals that many tourists were killed in last nights snow and hail storm and many were still lost. The EBC since then been closed and never opened for the rest of the year, as of now what I heard it would reopen only in April 2014. We definitely had a bad day in the trip and forced ourselves in the room as it was completely snowed out but because of this cyclone, we saw a different views of Friendship Highway on next day when it reopened, a view very few could witness with clear blue sky, world’s highest peak looming in the horizon and few feet of snow in either side of the black tarmac of the road as long as you can see!!

Day 27:

We started early as we had to cover till Zhangmu (Nepal-Tibet Border) and we knew we had a lot of stops to be taken for the entire day as we would cross High Himalayan ranges today. Woeser was upset too as we couldn’t make EBC, promptly instructed the guide to refund our entrance fees for EBC and also he offered us 100 km extra ride to Peiku Tso, a wonderful alpine lake towards the way to Western Tibet (Mansarovar), Woeser repeatedly proved the worth of choosing a right tour operator in such an unpredictable circuit. Just outside of Shegar town there was a major military check post where permits and passports were thoroughly checked for all 3 of us. This is the most important checkpoint in whole Lhasa – Kathmandu route where all papers and even luggage could be scanned. After 5 km from this checkpoint the turn off for Mt. Everest appeared approximately at kilometer marker of 5145 (From Shanghai). As a last hope we still gone to the security check post to get an idea of latest situation, what we heard still tourists and cars were trapped in upper region with meters of snow and all tents in Rongbuk were still under snow, the Chinese rescue team were working with the aid of helicopters to rescue tourists. Any movement from here towards base camp was strictly prohibited. We once again felt, it’s the mother nature who takes the final call as we abandoned our EBC dream which we planned and well executed almost till end for last 2 years just from 80 km away from the final destination. We soon reached Tingri, once a Tibetan-Nepali trading center for grain, goods, wool and livestock. The trade largely died out since China took over but odd Nepali traders can still be seen here. The small town lies in the edge of a vast plain. There are great views of the Himalayan Giants, all eight thousanders in the south for 180 degree, Starting from Everest to Lhotse to Nuptse to Cho Oyu the whole range was looking spectacular, we drove just outside the town to south for a better view from hill top and it was simply looking gorgeous. Looking at mighty Himalayan ranges from North and seen them in South was an experience of a life time. We had our lunch done in Tingri and as we drove south western, we started entering a magical region which might be the real heaven as we experienced it. The views from double pass of Thong La whose North Crest at 4950 meter and South Crest at 5200 meter was spectacular and beyond any description. We started going all the downhill after this and sharply started reducing heights as in 50km we climbed down from 5200 meter to 3700 meter to Nayalam and then in another 25 km to Zhangmu which was just at 2250 meter. From Nayalam the amazing drop off of plateau down through lush forest terrain with gushing waterfalls, it was simply an outstanding drive which we would remember for some times to come. We again got a 4 star hotel (Hotels at Zhangmu were quite costly) and thanks to Woeser for ending the trip so well.

First ray of Sun in the morning:

Hotel at Shegar, 24 hours Hot Water was the USP :

Small town of Shegar:

Villages beside the Friendship Highway:

The road goes on:

The turn where our dreams were shattered just 80 odd km away from final destination to EBC North Base Camp (There is always a next time in life but that is not so easy when it comes to Tibet):

Dream Ride continues:

Going through small villages:

Amazing Drive through Friendship Highway:

 

Colorful Grasses:

 

Previous: Day 25/Part 2

Next: Day 27/Part 2