Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Driving through Ice age:

Our Team standing with Regzin (It required skill to go there and pose for photo)

Water bodies Frozen:

The Scorpio:

Lone Kiang:

Kingdom of snow:

First view of Pangong (Nature’s own Photoshop, where is the blue?)

Respect to BRO:

Road Ahead:

Regzin and his Scorpio,

It’s everyone’s dream to stand on Frozen Pangong (Almost in middle of Lake):

The magic of frozen Pangong Tso:

The Ice on Frozen Lake is so hard it can easily take a fully loaded Scorpio with 4 persons:

Returning through snow land:

Clouds approaching on Chang La:

Shakti in afternoon :

Colorful Shakti:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 2:

With the permit in hand and a bright day forecasted, we were pretty confident to have a great day. Spoke Regzin last night and planned for a Pangong Day Trip. We neither had time nor had courage to stay the night in Pangong once Regzin shared the experience Alok, Jasdeep had and one of their friend was not well after that. Now day trip to Pangong means you have to start really early. In the winter, length of day is small as well, so we decided to start around 7.00 in morning, It was clear but sun had not come yet and outside was simply freezing. This was our first taste of harsh winter of Western Tibet, North of the Himalayas. On the way we were greeted by a brilliant sun rise and the red to orange to yellow to white transformation on the snow peaks couldn’t be expressed in words. We stopped beside Leh Manali Highway and tried to took couple of shots, I tried with my gloves off and could take hardly 2 snaps before I had to retreat. But then it was a scene you couldn’t afford to miss, so fight with nature was going on, gloves off, taking a quick snap, running back to car, put the hands on heater, gloves on and then again taking the courage to take another shot, these sequences were enacted for sometime, before we moved forward. At Karu, we had taken a tea break and that was really a break in that cold morning. We moved forward now towards Changla, but what it was, I couldn’t recognize the known places, those I visited couple of times, it looked like a journey on top of white carpet, sun ray was falling at the far on Wari La Top, making a serene experience. We moved forward, experienced a completely different view of Shakti from top, the famous Z in the road and the chill in the air was getting heavier as we proceeded towards Changla. We finally reached there and what a look!! Changla normally has snow always on top but this was an amazing view, the whole world was white out in front of us and barring a few army personnel and few dogs there was no living being in sight. Amazing it was!! The down slope towards Durbuk was changed as well, the whole stretch of sand zones were covered by snow, we faced black ice on the road and again it was Regzin whose experience made us through. He even keeps a shovel in car and dig some sands and dust and throw it on the bad sections to have a grip on the wheel, it was amazing to see how human being fights with nature to survive in harsh conditions. We reached Tangtse and ordered for our lunch and planned to take it on return, we had few cups of tea in the warm kitchen before we started for Pangong. No marmots, no sand stretch, it was all white, sometimes difficult to find the road other than tyre marks, we were keep going with that amazing experience and then reached the point of first view of Pangong, it usually a must stop for anyone visiting the lake, we couldn’t simply understand the point unless it was written in road side board. Really we couldn’t make out which was Pangong from there. The first view of the lake was unbelievable. Where the colorful lake gone? It was just frozen completely and covered with snow all around, we could identify the lake just by the plain lands in front of us on the backdrop of the mountains. Regzin asked us, if we wanted to go to lake or wanted to visit towards Spangmik, the unanimous choice was the lake and he drove straight into the lake, no Indian army was seen nearby, of course no boat to patrol and you could drive to China until you were caught by their army if you wish. Pangong experience couldn’t be written in words, see the snaps to feel it. It was a life time experience for all of us. We started our return and took a lunch break at Tangtse and the infamous wind started blowing since then, we thanked God that it was absolutely windless and sunny in Pangong. Once we were taking lunch we saw the clouds started coming and we knew it as IMD predicted a weak western disturbance on next day. So we hurriedly started for Leh, crossing Changla and came back to Leh by evening. A wonderful day came to an end, now weather was started getting gloomy, clouds were coming from all around and we went to sleep expecting a completely new experience on next day.

Golden Sunrise:

The clouds are at their best:

Shakti with Wari La at background:

Shakti from Top:

Lovely Setting:

On the way to Changla:

Far away army camp:

Heavenly Changla:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Spituk Monastery:

A look at India’s own grand canyon, on the way from Upashi to Chumathang:

The lovely scenery:

Indus water stream became so narrow, rest are frozen:

On the way to Mahe Bridge:

Mahe Bridge, note Indus is completely frozen now:

Sumdo Village:

Frozen Tso Kiagar:

Frozen Tso Moriri:

The amazing road with later afternoon sun:

Chumathang to Mahe Bridge beside Frozen Indus:

All white, can you differentiate the road, the river (Indus) and the big sandy stretches? (All who visited Ladakh can try guessing the location)

Where Diesel Frozen on the run:

Amazing Vista:

At Noyoma:

Ocean of Ice:

Ice Age Returns:

Removing dangerous black ice from road:

Mesmerizing Winter Ladakh:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Time Frozen in a perfect White Out – Introduction

Next: Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

Ladakh in Winter – Time Frozen in a Perfect White Out – Introduction

May 26, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

What is the best time to visit Ladakh, the answer even 3 years back was July to September. But it kept changing with time, 2 years back it was May to October, a year back even between April to December. So we thought why shouldn’t we extend it little further, how the Pangong Tso ‘s perfect blue would be, how the remote Changthang would be, how the passes like Chang La would be, how mighty Indus would look like in winter. Only one thing could answer, a trip in winter but how is it possible to make a trip in winter that too in Ladakh? Day’s maximum and minimum temperature both would be in minus, very few hotels would be operational, the place is completely landlocked and depends on aerial connection for long 5/6 months. But then to get all the answers, we have to go there.

We thought of doing Chadar this year and booked air tickets for Jan end to Leh sometimes last year August. Then in December as usual we understood our other commitments won’t allow us to take off during that time and finally we cancelled the trek. But hoping on hope, that some miracles might happen, we didn’t cancel the flights. First time in my life miracle happened and 3 of us took a decision to go for a Ladakh trip in winter in almost 24 hours notice.

What happened next would be best described by snaps, let’s roll it on:

Aerial View:

Semi Frozen Indus:

Indus and Zanskar meets at Nimmu:

Chadar formed on Zanskar River:

Golden Sunrise:

On the way to Chang La:

Near Chang La Top:

Frozen Water body towards Tangtse:

Completely Frozen Pangong Tso – A Dream Comes True:

See the strength of frozen ice, you can easily drive your Scorpio on the Lake:

Shakti in evening:

Painting on a white Canvas – A Cloudy day in Leh:

Nimmu during snowfall:

Scorpio on Kargil – Leh Road : Almost zero visibility but whatever you see is White except the Car:

Magical Indus managing its flow even in harshest winter:

The breath taking views:

Near Khaltse:

Snow scape:

Entering Dha:

Locals of Dha:

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

Ladakh – Journey to Pangong crossing Wari La & Chang La

May 26, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

01st October:

Our luck with weather was still continuing as we were in our tenth day of the trip and weather would play a crucial role for this day as we were to take Wari la – Changla route to reach Pangong from Nubra. Deskit – Khalsar was in normal route from where route towards Agham diverts and we gone through a completely desolate 31km drive where we were the only car. Excellent fun journey with Shyok river and lots of photo stops we reached Agham and here again two roads diverts, one through Wari La – Changla – Durbuk (total 134 km with 2 high passes) and other through Agham – Shyok – Durbuk route which doesn’t cross any pass and distance is only 66km. We enquired and a local portrayed a horrible picture of Agham – Shyok route and told the road was absolutely cut off in multiple places and we couldn’t reach there. We spoken to a BRO camp nearby and they said it’s under 93 RCC who owns that stretch and their HQ was at Shyok and they don’t have much idea on that part of the road but mentioned their supplies which earlier used to come through that road now stopped and currently brought through Wari La. Indication was clear that road was not through. We started our journey to Tangyar, the last village before the steep ascent of Wari La starts. This road was really desolate and the steepness would be hard to ignore, the lonely Scorpio was trying hard with snows around the road, the water source and nallas were semi frozen and a few yaks around are the only thing you could see apart from tall mountains around. We reached the top after almost a 40 km drive from Agham. The road was tarred all through and descent to Shakti was in even better condition. We were overjoyed after crossing Wari La and took a tea break in Shakti, a nice valley looks so beautiful with fall colors. Soon we started our ascent to Changla and reached the top without much difficulties and roads are superb from Shakti towards Changla and same remains good till Lukung where you reach the Pangong lake. At Durbuk, Regzin got diesels as we had a long route to take without any option of fuel. Here we spoke to 93 RCC on Agham – Shyok route and they told us categorically that road was not through but considering October water level, Scorpio could manage that road but then it was too late to utilize this great piece of information. Tangtse was very close in another 9km and we have enough time to approach the Pangong but we decided to take a break at Tangtse as it was 1000 ft lower than Spangmik and would help us to acclimatize at Changthang though we were already well acclimatized by then. But later we found our decision was good as we had light headache and suddenly feeling quite cold in that night, it’s highly recommended to stay a night at Tangtse specially if someone comes from lower height of Nubra directly. The best place to stay was Dothguling and luckily we got it completely vacant though people didn’t get any place to stay here for next few days, courtesy Puja Rush. Again Regzin managed the nice double room for Rs. 500/- here, offseason and Regzin’s bargaining skill was a lethal combo.

Khalsar to Agham with Shyok following us:

Tanjiyar Village, last village before ascent to Warila:

Approaching Wari La, Rivers started freezing down at that height:

At Wari La Top:

Descent to Shakti:

Amazing Fall Colors at Shakti Valley:

Shakti Valley from Top, straight one towards Warila and right one towards Changla:

Towards Chang La:

At Chang La Top:

Tangtse Valley from Top:

02nd October:

We were little skeptic on the accommodation options at Spangmik and wanted to reach early there to evaluate the options and avail the best possible option what we could get. We already were informed most of the GH at Spangmik were closed for the season. Started around 8.00 in the morning from Tangtse and enroute took some time to spend with the marmots who are quite habituated in human interaction unlike the population we found in Zanskar. Some quick photo breaks and we are at Lukung where the famous Pangong Lake starts. With lots of snaps available across web and some Bollywood movies are shot, Pangong is quite a common name to all of us now but I felt a drastic change since I first time saw this heavenly lake in 2003. I remember we were only car in Sep begin for the 6 hours we spent in Lukung that time but this time at 10.00 am we found shops, tents, so many people around and lots of cars and that too in October. Hope the lake would survive along its fragile ecosystem under this tremendous onslaught of mass tourism. The famous 3-Idiots shooting actually started in Tsomoriri around middle of Sep 2008 and after a day shoot started, the whole region snowed out completely and that year the Sep snow was so heavy that thousands of people got stuck across Leh-Manali highway for 4/5 days. The crew cancelled the shooting and they came back next year (2009) July in Pangong as administration didn’t permit them to shoot at Tsomoriri during July as it was breeding time for migratory birds. That’s the way Pangong came into fame. The crew stayed at Dothguling GH in Tangtse for few days and they took snaps of all the actors/actresses at their GH, having lunch / dinner at their dining room and now have kept those snaps all across the GH.I was told by them that Aamir Khan was happy in this postponing of the shoot as in new schedule he got an opportunity to shoot the last scene at the fag end of shooting which was not possible if it would have been done as per original schedule in the beginning. Nothing surprising from a perfectionist like him though. We spent some time at Lukung though it was absolutely crowded and then moved towards Spangmik crossing few more shooting spots all of them are famous with the movie. At Spangmik the JKTDC GH which is now leased to locals were empty but they said they were winding up. After some requests they agreed to let us in and we got the nice double room just beside lake with attached toilets at 2500/- including all meals. Not really cheap but definitely cheaper than its actual price of 4500/- I was not really keen to bargain here as almost all the GH were closed down and we felt the chill last night at Tangtse itself which was 1000 ft lower. Checked in there, had hot tea and gone to lake side soon after. Here there was no crowd and you can enjoy the lake of your own. Great feelings to see the various shades of blue in the backdrop of brown and red mountains. Enjoyed the lake till evening but we started feeling the chilling wind across the lake as the time progresses and got an idea what to face in the night. The night was really cold and probably coldest in our whole trip and we found in morning the waters in buckets and pipes were frozen.

Friendly Marmots on the way to Lukung:

Magical Pangong Tso:

At Spangmik, lake was belong to us, very few tourist and the blue with magical fall colors:

JKSRTC Bus at Spangmik, frequency once in a week:

The lovely kid at Spangmik:

Previous: Ladakh – Nubra Valley: Hundar, Turtuk, Deskit

Next: Ladakh – Merak, Chusul, Hanle, Koyul and Demchok, the last point on LAC between India and China

Ladakh – Exploring Zanskar, Ladakh and Remote Changthang – Introduction

May 25, 2014May 26, 2014 by Kaushik

Managing Zanskar and Ladakh in one go for 18 days with kid, possible? The question was looming large but then planning to Demchok and Chumur adds more uncertainty and seems to be an insane idea. Now while going to Demchok from Hanle, crossing Photila and trying Tsomoriri directly from Hanle, won’t it be crazy? Yes we started a well planned trip with lots of input from this forum but honestly it gone beyond sanity to try with just wife and kid. We enjoyed thoroughly and in God’s grace got excellent weather. This is the time to share our experience.

I have been to Ladakh earlier and knew the challenges, challenge of acclimatizing your body with that height of 11K+ almost through out the trip, desolate and remoteness of the Zanskar Valley and Changthang Plateau, choosing the right window for travel considering the early and late seasons are full of uncertainties and actual small 2 month’s window of July and August are terribly crowded. For me it was more challenging as I was going to take this trip with just my wife and kid of 6.5 yrs. Getting a car with reasonable price and knowledgeable drivers who have some ideas beyond Nubra/Pangong/Tsomoriri were a must to make this trip a success. Number of Taxi Unions and their self proclaimed rules in their own areas were another mess you need to handle if you want to take up this trip. Kargil Cars can take you to Zanskar but can’t take you back without paying a premium to Zanskar Union, for Zanskar sight seeing you have to take Zanskar Cabs, Kargil Cabs can take you to Leh but can’t do sightseeing in Lamayuru etc. enroute. I was again lucky to get introduced to ex.Taxi Union President of Kargil Mr. Rehman, a nice gentleman who helped me to get Kazim, a middle aged person with a Scorpio and Xylo and it’s because of him I was able to complete my Zanskar trip. Ladakh part was never be possible without Regzin, who was simply outstanding and being an ex. army of Ladakh Scouts and posted in all corners of Ladakh including Siachen, DBO, Chumur, Demchok for 18 years, he knew how to follow the tyre track and common sense for hundreds of km before coming across the first vehicle for opposite side without any direction or maps.

Another funny part was the plans and backups I kept, I had to cancel 5 sets of tickets for different sectors those were planned as my backup in different stages. My idea was to visit through Srinagar but had to keep Del-Leh flight open in case situation in Srinagar Valley turns volatile, similarly I kept my return plan open so that I can travel to Leh – Manali or can fly out from Leh directly which I did eventually. I even had to cancel a Del-Kolkata Rajdhani ticket while my Del-Kol flight was taxied to runway which I kept in case Leh-Del flight gets cancelled and subsequently my Kolkata connection would have missed.

Weather in this region was a big ask, you never know when that could change dramatically but with God’s grace and good wishes of many other friends, I got probably the best weather possible, first time I saw cloud in the sky on my last day of the trip, it was absolutely cloudless and blue sky with fall colors all around.

The Trip Schedule is like this:

Day 1 – Fly from Kolkata to Srinagar via Delhi and on same day proceed to Sonmarg and stay

Day 2 – Sonmarg – Jojila – Drass – Kargil – Purtikchey

Day 3 – Purtikchey – Panikhar – Parkachik – Rangdum – Pensi La – Padum

Day 4 – Padum Stay and visit Strongde Monastery, Zangla Palace, Bardan Monastery and Karsha Monastery

Day 5 – Padum – Sankhoo

Day 6 – Sankhoo – Kharse Khar Village for Maiterya Buddha – Kargil – Leh

Day 7- Leh Permits and Local Sight Seeing

Day 8 – Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley – Hunder

Day 9 – Hunder – Turtuk – Deskit

Day 10 – Deskit – Wari La – Chang La – Tangtse

Day 1 1 – Tangtse – Spangmik

Day 12 – Spangmik – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsga La – Loma – Hanle

Day 13 – Hanle – Photi La – Photile – Koyul – Demchok Back to Hanle

Day 14 – Hanle – Kyun Tso – Salsal La – Chumur – Charchagan La – Tsomoriri

Day 15 – Tsomoriri – Tso Kar – Tanglang La – Leh

Day 16 – Spare Day at Leh

Day 17 – Spare Day at Leh

Day 18 – Flying from Leh to Kolkata via Delhi

The map Harsh and Aarti had prepared is simply invaluable and to my knowledge the best map that is available for anyone wants to visit this area. Please refer to the map below to understand the route plan properly. Thanks Harsh and Aarti again for this wonderful effort and you were the inspiration of our trip.