Karnataka – Mysore, Shivasamudram, Talakad, Entering to Waynad

May 29, 2014June 1, 2014 by Kaushik

Day1

Spice Jet welcomed us on board flat 4 hours late, reason the first significant fog delay of the year in Kolkata. My plans for the day were gone for a toss that moment itself. While reaching Bangalore 4.5 hours late, adding more spice to Spice Jet’s journey we found we had lost one luggage, not an ideal start for a 3 weeks trip but found a luggage with similar color in the luggage belt that was the only one left out. Took it to Spice counters and a quick call there after, things luckily got sorted out. The funny guy even boarded in a local bus with my luggage, came back apologetically, I too suddenly became apologetic, as if it was my mistake too to bring a bag with same color but anyway felt extremely relieved when I got it.

Next moment discovered the driver who only can speak couple of words like “Adjust(o)” (used when there is any problem, be it taking an overtake in a blind turn of a narrow State Highway at a speed of 80 kmph and saved by a whisker from a big truck or asking him to stay at car when we are off for a quick temple darshan and then realized he gone in a queue for Prasad and came back an hour later) and “Parwa Nehin” (used when there is no issue, like in morning if I ask whether he had a good sleep last night or when I see him sleeping with steering in his hands on a NH and requesting him to take a quick tea break) those match with my known stock of words. I specifically asked Sathish, the guy who offered me a very new Xylo in an attractive rate, to provide a driver who at least can understand some Hindi/English. But it was not the case and I felt this language issue was not at all any less challenging than venturing the roads of Ladakh or Arunachal during the whole trip.

I was supposed to start from BIAL (Bangalore Int’l Airport) by 9.30 am and I finally started at sharp 2.30pm for Mysore after fog and lost bag episode. Fortunately the driver had the long list of places I intended to travel (that I sent in an email to Sathish) translated in Kannada but as usual I was not in a position to validate what actually was translated. With all courage, I finally started and decided that I would straight head to Mysore without any detour on that day as I was already late. The roads are fabulous in many parts of Karnataka and especially B’lore -Mysore was a breeze, we cruised on an average of 100 and straight head to KRS dam for a light and sound show. In between took a quick lunch at MacD in Maddur, the only thing in the whole day that worked as planned. KRS dam was good but nothing extra ordinary and a big put off was the huge crowd. That’s a problem we faced almost everywhere where there was a temple/ruin/park anything. We have seen lots of students coming in for some educational trip and huge crowds in all these places which sometimes make it difficult to enjoy the place itself. Not sure if it was because of festive month like December or it’s common in this part of India. My daughter even got angry on her school when she realized that’s all other schools in earth go for so many wonderful trips with their students 🙂 We somehow escaped the place with lots of efforts and realized the day was not for us and straight away moved towards Hotel. At Mysore we were booked in KSTDC Hoysala and our driver (Venkatesh) was proved to be a person with almost no road/direction sense and we finally found the hotel after crossing it for 4 times. Rooms were just ok but the biggest problem of KSTDC was you won’t find any kind of service once you check in. If your geyser/AC/fan all are ok, you are fine but if for some reason you need any manual intervention and call for service you would certainly feel the heat. So if booked in KSTDC, examine the room well before checking and that would help you a lot.

Car Odo Reading:

Airport – 44010
End at Mysore Hotel – 44229

Shivasamudram (Gaganachukki)

Shivasamudram (Barachukki)

Talkad – the figure carved out of a single stone in overhang:

Talkad Temples

Somnathapura – Hoysala Architecture:

Day2

Next day Venkatesh understood (at least that was my understanding) that we would start early by 6.00 and would try to cover some lost time of first day. We got ready at 6.00 sharp and came to car to find him sleeping in the car. He woke up soon and with his usual smile and “Parwa Nehin” took another 30 mins to get ready and finally we started around 6.45 for Shivasamudram. Except 15 km of bad road near Mallavalli, the rest of the road was superb and we reached Gaganachukki around by 9.00am. The falls were still very impressive even though it’s not at its best which usually be in Monsoon. We went to Barachukki side too but by that time school kids started coming and crowds were too much. This side one can go very close to the falls by walking down and taking the coracle. We didn’t have time neither were very willing with so many people around.

We started our journey to Talakad which is definitely an interesting place where you would find 16th century temples Buried in sand dunes, discovered,excavated and rebuilt by ASI. The only thing beyond my understanding was why these temples are not preserved as Archeological ruins only, I have seen religious activities are going on inside them and not sure if that would be good to preserve this invaluable heritage properties for future.

Next we moved towards Somnathpura an excellent and must visit Hoysala architecture especially if you don’t like heavy crowds. It’s still not that crowded as Belur or Halebidu but wonderfully decorated and worth all effort to visit that. Thanks to few experienced travellers who strongly suggested me to visit this place. We spent almost 2 hours here and then finally proceeded to Ranganatithu which is again a very nice place but you should be there in morning 8.30 when it just opens or may be in last trip of 5.30 to watch more birds. We have seen a few birds and crocodiles and were informed that Feb is best time to see the birds here. The palace lighting was amazing and shouldn’t be missed out at any cost. The timing is for 45 mins between 7 to 7.45 on Sunday only. My wife picked up a few Mysore silk too in the middle of such a busy day 🙂

Car Odo Reading:

Mysore – 44229
Mallavalli – 44290
Gaganchukki (Shivasamudram)- 44313
Barachukki – 44330
Talakad – 44365
Somnathpura – 44398
Ranganatithu – 44445
Mysore – 44474

Somnathapura Temple – Hoysala Architecture:

Ranganatithu Bird Sanctuary:

Mysore Palace:

Day3

I wasn’t taking any chances and from this day onwards I called Venkatesh an hour before our scheduled departure time and also follow up in every 15 minutes:-) So we somehow got ready and started our day by 6.30 in the morning. Today’s objective was to enjoy the forest drive of Bandipur/Mudumalai. Till Gundalpet the road was superb and it was cruising at 100kmph. Had breakfast at Gundalpet and entered Bandipur NP limit soon after. The drive is really amazing, you would easily spot deer and elephants on your way. The road gradually becomes more scenic as we enter Tamilnadu towards Mudumalai. If you are in a Karnataka registered commercial vehicle, at Gudalur you need to pay TN State Tax that costs Rs. 400/- and valid for 7 days.

Those who are proceeding to Waynad, usually don’t take this route, the direct route is from Gundalpet towards Muthunga, Sulthan Bathery and Kalapetta. We tried to make our journey little longer and actually trying to take Gudalur – Meppadi – Kalapetta route but finally landed up to Gudalur – Sultan Bathery – Kalapetta route. Venkatesh created one more mess here and drove straight to Kalapetta without paying Kerala State Tax. I repeatedly warned him and he with his “Parwa Nehin” smile, keep driving. Once at Kalapetta we headed to RTO Office to pay the tax but were told that the tax can be collected only at entry point and we were advised to go back to pay the toll. We really had no option left and I finally decided to move towards Gundalpet border so that I can at least include Muthunga WLS evening safari.

Traveling back 50 odd km we reached Muthunga check post and this time I spoke to the tax collection booth fellow and to make it simple I mentioned I am coming from Mysore. Things sorted out quickly, paid Rs.140 for a 7 day one round trip permit in Kerala and we quickly headed for the Muthunga Safari. Seen wild boars, sambars, deer and lots of wild elephants in the safari. While coming back to Kalapetta, we witnessed a brilliant sunset on the way and finally reached Hotel Woodlands in Kalapetta. Hotel was nice and food was excellent.

Car Odo Reading:

Mysore – 44474
Gundalpet- 44540
Mudumalai – 44574
Gudalur – 44589
Devarshola – 44601
Bitherkad – 44613
Sultan Bathery – 44634
Kalapetta- 44660
Muthunga WLS – 44700
Kalapetta – 44742

Mysore Palace at Morning:

Bandipur National Park and road towards Mudumalai:

Enroute Mudumalai – Sultan Bathery:

Tea Estates in the border of TN and Kerala on the way to Sulthan Bathery:

Wild Elephants at Muthunga WLS:

Beautiful Sunset on the way from Muthunga to Kalapetta (Waynad):

Hotel Woodlands, where we stayed at Kalapetta in evening:

Previous: Karnataka – One State Many Worlds : Introduction

Next: Karnataka – Waynad

Karnataka – One State Many Worlds : Introduction

May 29, 2014June 1, 2014 by Kaushik

Why Karnataka and that too for a person like me who loves mountains and lonely landscapes? The question haunted me and many of my friends who curiously asked if I am taking each Indian state as my destination. Few good friends of IM even alerted me saying it’s not going to be a Zanskar or Arunachal even in farthest dream where for many miles it’s you and your soul only. Honestly I also never heard of any Karnataka round trip, we are familiar with a Kerala trip, a month long South India trip but spending almost a month in one state, Karnataka? Isn’t it going to be too much?

The answer is with due respect to every Indian state which are all fabulous on their own, Karnataka is probably the most versatile. God has given this state all except the mighty Himalayas, so if you want to take a break from the mighty Himalayas, probably this is the state you won’t regret choosing as your destination. This land of fragrance has all the ingredients of a great holiday. Its varieties lie in the relaxed length of the golden coastline along the Arabian sea, majestic Deccan rock to thick lush tropical forests and interesting wildlife, silk and sandalwood, an incredible variety of rare species of flora and fauna, a rich culture and heritage, forts, Palaces, ruins, Ornate Temples and pilgrim centers and Hill resorts.

My plan started with spectacular waterfalls to Shivasamudram, sand sunk temples of Talakad, Hoysala marvel of Somnathpura, great wildlife at the Waynad (Muthunga and Tholpetty WLS), Bandipur, Mudumalai and Nagarhole and then slowly moving to coffee plantations of Coorg and towards Bekal of Northern Kerala. Everyday you would see something new, the landscapes changes completely and so the people and culture.

Next was the coastal Karnataka and splendours of beaches like Kaup, Baindoor, Maravanthe, Gokarn and geographical wonders of St. Mary’s Island before heading for Western Ghats to hit evergreen Malnad via Jog Falls with its beauty and charming hill stations of Kemmanagundi, Mulayanagiri, Bhadra WLS or the Hoysala art of Belur and Halebidu. The brilliance of Malnad continues as you travel through Kudremukh,temples of Hornadu and Srinigeri, hitting the ghat again at Agumbe and finally at blissful Tirthahally.

The magic continues as you enter the ageless “Cradle of Stone Architecture” at Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal and finally the amazing Hampi. As you keep traversing through length and breadth of Karnataka, be ready to be spellbound by its magic, truly “One State Many Worlds”.

Outline of the 3 weeks trip was like this:

Southern Forest and Coffee Circuit:

Day1 – Bangalore Airport – Mysore
Day2 – Mysore – Shivasamudram – Talakad – Somnathpura – Ranganatithu – Mysore
Day3 – Mysore – Gundalpet – Bandipur – Mudumalai – Gudalur – Sultan Bathery – Muthunga WLS – Kalpeta
Day4 – Kalpeta – Meppady – Soochipara – Sunrise Valley – Phookot Lake – Banasurasagar Dam – Kalpeta
Day5 – Kalpeta – Mananvady – Kuruwa Island – Kattikulam – Tholpetty WLS- Iruppu Falls – Thirunelly
Day6 – Thirunelly – Kattikulam – Bavali – Karapura – Kabini JLR
Day7 – Kabini JLR – Bavali – Kattikulam – Kutta – Ponnampet – Gonikoppal – Virajpet – Madikeri
Day8 – Madikeri – Abbey Falls – Bhagamandala – Talacauvery – Panathur – Kanhangad – Bekal Fort – Kasargod – Mangalore

Google Map: http://g.co/maps/cqynj

Western Coastal and Central Malnad Circuit:

Day9 – Managalore – Kaup Beach – Malpe (Take Ferry to St. Mary) – Kundapur – Maravanthe – Ottinene for sunset and back to Maravanthe
Day10- Maravanthe – Byndoor Beach – Murudheshwara – Kumta Beach – Gokarna
Day11- Explore Gokarna Beach and other Beaches like Kudle, OM, Half Moon and Paradise.
Day12- Gokarna – Kumta – Take SH48 – Ondane – Mensa – Jog Falls – Sagar – Shimoga – Lakkavalli
Day13- Lakkavalli – Tarikere – Lingdahalli – Kalahati Falls – Kemmanagundi – Mulayanagiri -Chikmagalur – Belur
Day14- Belur – Halebidu – Belur
Day15- Belur – Chikmagalur – Vastare – Aldur – Balehonnur – Magundi – Balehole – Hornadu – Kalasa – Kudremukh NP – SK Border – Srinigeri-Agumbe – Tirthahally

Google Map: http://g.co/maps/8qyyg

Northern Heritage Circuit:

Day16- Tirthahally – Shimoga – Honnali – Harihar- Take NH4 – Haveri – Hubli – Take NH218 – Navalgund – Nargund -Kulgiri Cross – Badami
Day17- Badami – Pattadakal – Aihole – Badami
Day18- Badami – Gajendragarh – Kushtagi – Budugumpa – Take SH23 to Gangawati – Anegundi – back to Gangawati – Kampli – Hampi
Day19- Hampi – Daroji – Hampi
Day20- Hampi
Day21- Hampi – Hospet – Chitradurga – Tumkur – Dosspeta – Bangalore Airport

Google Map (Tirthahally – Hampi): http://g.co/maps/vy9vu

Google Map (Hampi – Banagalore Airport): http://g.co/maps/g9r4n

The main objective of writing this is to take you through the versatility the state can offer, so primarily it would be a photo log with some narrations.

Next: Karnataka – Mysore, Shivasamudram, Talakad, Entering to Waynad

Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-2

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Snowy Niyoma:

That’s the bridge forking out from main road towards Kyun Tso, wonderfully Indus appeared with water here:

This is a dream to drive such a road:

Road continues:

The special colors of Ladakh are peeping through snow covers:

Where this road can lead to:

Dangerous Black Ice Section to Drive:

Mountains, snow, blue sky and lovely clouds – Big 4 to make Ladakh the most unique:

See the dangerous curve and what a deadly turn it is with black ice and slopes, you loose control slightly, on left Indus is waiting for you:

Approaching Mahe:

North Bound Journey started since we left Mahe and only small car we faced in whole journey, surely some locals were driving:

See the difference of colors in the mountains:

Indus water started coming up again as we approaches Chumathang:

Chumathang – Where we spent our coldest night of life, morning 9, temperature was –35 degree C

Small villages enroute:

The road goes through Canyon land:

As every good thing comes to end, we are bidding goodbye to our shadows leaving our soul there, promising we would return again:

What an amazing place, looks so beautiful even from sky

The mighty Himalayan from top:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

The End

Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 5:

Last day was the best day and we could hardly write, describe, show you what we have seen and experienced and felt. It’s not just diesel, it’s time and part of lives frozen for ever in those mind blowing moments.

We got up early and saw the obscure windows completely layered with ice, Sanjay got all his courage to get out of the room to find the guys, we at least need some water to fresh us up but what we left in the bucket was transformed to ice, so good that once the power gone, inside temp was gone subzero and we were supposed to be acclimatized with the temperature at least. Sanjay somehow found Regzin who was also frantically trying to wake up hotel guys, we need some maggy at least before we can start, After yesterdays experience Som initially retired and declared he won’t be out for Loma drive and rather we would pick him up from Chumathang on our return trip. Probably later in the night good sense prevailed and he understood coming so far but not completing the journey when weather and luck both are favoring us would be a big mistake, also realized he won’t be anyway comfortable in the sub zero temp inside the room alone for long. By that time Regzin came with maggy, really never saw a more efficient person than him even in my professional life. In our corporate world every day we speak about customer satisfaction, client need, looking into bigger picture and make client understand what he really wants but if I ever understood and felt that how business could be done following those golden rules of management, it’s Regzin who taught me this. I don’t know how many of you could imagine that a driver would wake up at morning 5.30, then clear the ice from car, heat up the diesel, tried to wake up hotel guys, finally when he couldn’t he managed the keys of kitchen from them, supplied bucket of hot water (you are reading right, it was hot water) and then prepared maggy for us and did everything when outside temp was certainly below -20 degree C outside and literally prepared us for the trip well within time, 7.30 in morning. Without him this trip was never be possible and if by any means readers consider this report to be one of better reports of 2013, please note, the whole credit goes to that veteran ex Ladakh scout guy, who showed us (and you through this report) a completely unknown world to many of us, made me feel how diverse this country is, last year same time, I remember after spending 2 hours in Gokarn beach in Karnataka, I had to take rest for 2 hours in AC where as this year we had to boil ice to drink water.

Journey started and the Indus valley looking amazing with frozen Indus in the morning light. The Scorpio heater couldn’t start as the motor failed to start in that temperature. We reached Mahe Bridge soon and ourselves opened the barrier, Regzin himself gone inside the empty office room to enter the car details, (Thinking if really permit can be checked in odd hours of the day), Few road workers started coming into the region and waiting for the BRO pickup trucks and they said next 10km is a horrible stretch ahead and quite a few accident happened in that stretch in last one week. We realized soon, it was completely a stretch of black ice and only Regzin knew how he could drive in such a situation. The moment we took the left turn from Mahe Bridge the Loma the magic began, it was all white, a cliché to use here but believe me I am short of words what I have seen there in that stretch between Mahe bridge to Loma, it was not black and white, rather blue and white every where you can see.

Suddenly we felt a jerk, Scorpio jumped a little but anyway it was managed, we understood we hit somewhere where the ice was little loose and that was the reason of the bump, anyway we keep continuing, saw someone coming into a scooter, we slowed down and checked if it was Masterji again there but no it was not him (But I wont be surprised to meet him there too and finding a solo scooter trilogy in BCMTS soon ). When we almost reached Loma, could see the famous bridge (which they don’t even allow to photograph) Regzin complained about lack of traction in Scorpio. We also got surprised, the car which served us for last one week in all odds, what happened to him in Changthang, soon we realized it was not take any pickup and slowly stopped. Regzin and all of us gone out of the car in that ocean of ice to investigate and to our surprise Regzin diagnosed that the diesel was frozen completely. What?? Diesel frozen? in a running car?? Regzin was shots with lots of questions and we started telling him the car has started showing ages especially the odo touching 300 thousand km. Then Regzin explained us, it was that jerk we felt on the way because of loose ice, caught some ice into the transmission and tank and it slowly took its toll, freezing the whole system of the running car!!! I couldn’t believe but then he was Regzin, brought out a stove, lying on the fresh ice for some 45 mins under the car with that stove to make it workable. Only he could!! We couldn’t light up a cig, it was so windy with extreme chill and this guy was simply heating up the car lying on snow for 45 mins. Outside temp was -35 at least and our body temp gone close to 10 even when we were inside the Jeep.

Anyway we tried our best to take as many photos as we could take and once Regzin started the Scorpio again, we started our return journey, we were hardly a km away from Loma and thought it’s better to start return journey as we had to go to Leh with a lunch break at Chumathang. The return journey was equally fascinating and we finally reached Leh around 6.30 in evening. We had planned for Nubra valley on next day but then we knew a big WD was approaching, next day would be sunny but from evening the weather started turning bad. The next day was Thursday one of those 3 days you can go from Leh to Nubra on winter (It’s not open all days like summer months), so there was no possibility of day trip, also we thought simply a journey to Khardungla won’t match with what we have seen in Changthang and now after visiting Ladakh so many times, I think, nothing can match that region, it’s simply fabulous. Still I wanted to see the dunes of Nubra which are attractive too but obviously being a part of Taklamakan desert and being sandwiched between Kunlun, Karakoram and Ladakh range, it hardly receives any moisture and so there won’t be much snow in the valley. Also the extreme uncertainties of flight during that time (Alok’s case was fresh in mind) we decided finally to call of the rest of the trip. Rest means we were supposed to go to Nubra on Thursday, come back to Leh on Friday, kept a day in Leh on Saturday for Shanti Stupa and all, and our flight was booked on Sunday. Now when we saw back to back strong WD coming from Friday, we had no choice but to take a chance with Thursday flight. We made final call at 8.30 to catch a morning flight next day. Informed Regzin that we are going to give a try to leave tomorrow else we can foresee a week’s disruption at least. One more problem was by Sunday a lot of Chadar trekkers would be back and getting a ticket would be more difficult. Now at 9.00 in night we had all sorts of problems of extreme slow net connection, weak phone signal, no electricity what not!! But we knew we had to give our best, my office didn’t know anything on this adventure they still knew I was out of country. Som and Sanjay were pressed for time as well. Along with this we had several other problems, I booked my ticket from airlines website, one got it from Yatra, one brought it through net banking where as without credit cards you can’t change it over phone. Anyway let’s not get into details, with 3 long hours, with packets of cigs burnt, when we finished the job it was already Thursday, post midnight. Then we had to do some kind of adjustment in our luggage after all Leh is a high security airport. We finally gone to sleep after 1.00, what a day it was, starting from morning till end it was all filled with surprise and uncertainties.

Regzin was sad but being a Ladakhi he understands better than us what bad weather means, he arranged everything for our dinner on Friday but anyway there is always a next time. Starting from reaching there on 3 consecutive holidays and still getting the permit, visiting starting point of Chadar Trek, Dah Hanu Village, a drive on frozen pangong, a frozen tsomoriri with lone Kiyang and then finally the ice age at Loma, we got all what we wanted in extremely good weather. Ladakh never returned me without a good weather, I love this place so much and really don’t know how many more times I have to go there and keep you guys bored with all little things.

Next day flight departed a little late as from morning the day started cloudy and windy, as we could see in IMD.. but anyway we took off around 11.00 am saw clouds everywhere from top unlike what we saw the day we came. Reached Leh, spent some pathetic 5/6 hours in T3 after such an ambience in Leh and got the connecting flight to Kolkata and safely reached and after this adventurous trip, first victim was my driver when in Jan end he had to switch on the full AC once I stepped into Kolkata. I was born and brought up here and in 4 decades I never felt Kolkata so hot in January

PS: I kept watching the Jet website for the flight status between Leh-Delhi and we took Thursday’s flight, and next flight departed Leh after exactly one week on next Thursday, such was the impact of 2 back to back strong WD. So all well if it ends well as it happened every time with me in Ladakh!!

Let’s not talk more, share the last few snaps of this great trip and I think you won’t be disappointed.

Morning in Chumathang:

Way to Mahe Bridge:

The Ocean of snow:

Work Horse, The Scorpio, note the side glasses are still completely frozen after 1 hour of heating and direct sunlight from outside:

Diesel Frozen, Regzin working it out:

Ice Age (Far away Loma Bridge):

A Dream Land, isn’t it?

Regzin posing:

Kingdom of Ice:

See someone tried offroading even here:

Nyoma Air Base:

What a road to drive:

Lone Truck:

Frozen Indus on the left:

See the stylish Ladakhi cloud:

Nice 100 mtr black Top, looks so nice in the white background:

Approaching Niyoma:

That’s Nyoma, frozen and sleeping in January:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

Next: Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 4

IMD suggested 2 more sunny days before another WD hits, so we were cheerful about our changthang expedition, though what we heard from Alok / Jasdeep was not at all promising. They had a nightmarish experience which would be narrated in their log but that description on spot would be enough to send a spike of chill across your spine. We had two hopes to be honest, first the clear weather prediction of IMD which usually gets very accurate in 48 hours span and second is Regzin. We knew so long Regzin was with us, we would be safe and happy. Somehow he has some lucky charm at least it worked with me be it crossing Photula, or entering Demchok or crossing the stream in Chumur or loosing our way to Tsomoriri or even when bridge was removed in Khaltse. I don’t know it’s because of his army background or what but he really could keep immense calm and composure whenever he is pushed to corner, so we didn’t think much started our journey quite early. It was first time we were checking out of Leh hotel after our 4 days of stay. We had our breakfast ready on time by hotel guys, they were really helpful, cooperated with us every time whenever we needed. The morning was really beautiful as we were running through Leh – Manali highway in cold morning of Jan, semi frozen Indus was with us and the morning sun glowing at its best on some of the famous monasteries like Thiksey and Spituk.

We reached Upashi quite quickly and had a tea break there, Som tried coffee, wonderful surroundings with bright sun and chilling ambience was gripping. Now it was time for us to leave Leh-Manali highway and take the road towards Mahe via Chumathang, following Indus all across. In my last trip to Ladakh, I covered almost all of the Ladakh where road had reached but somehow missed out the stretch between Upashi to Loma as I took Spangmik – Loma – Hanle – Chumur – Tsomoriri – Tanglangla – Leh during my last trip. So for me and Som it was a new venture where as Sanjay has already covered this stretch. The road entered into the Indus Canyon and the color of the red canyons were quite similar to those of Arizona just may be at 5 times height with Indus flowing in between. It was an amazing journey across the colorful canyons with semi frozen Indus. The more we were going, the water on top was reducing leaving places to ice on Indus.

We reached Chumathang and the restaurant there was covered in all glass, was giving a green house effect, amazingly warm and I had my best lunch in winter Leh just with Maggie. I noticed clearly that upper portion of the hot springs are all frozen at 2.00pm in afternoon. So that was enough to give a clue of the night we are going to stay there. As Sanjay mentioned, with the advice of Alok/Jasdeep, we secured the electric heater for us at least till 10.00 (till power remains) and then after finishing the lunch we started proceeding for Mahe Bridge. Now the road ceased to exist, it’s all ice, only the difference of height demarcated the road and Indus. We reached the Mahe Bridge and at 2.30, I simply couldn’t stand on Mahe Bridge to take more than 2 shots. This part was terribly windy and after showing permit at Mahe Bridge as we proceeded towards Sumdo, we found an Army Gypsy there trying its best to navigate through ice. This part from Mahe to Sumdo was the worst with all black ice and the army vehicle was wildly swinging, when we overtook it, the driver asked Regzin how far Sumdo was and would the road be improved, they were going to the village for a route check but looking at their driving skill, we understood why Regzin stood apart even in comparison to the army drivers. I doubted if the Gypsy at all reached Sumdo as we didn’t see it any more till our journey and we took lots of photo breaks in between. It’s skill with confidence and calm head that makes the difference in these difficult conditions and Regzin was master of all. The Sumdo village was sleeping in frozen time it seems, we took left turn and spotted the jackal on the top, how it survives -40/-45 of Changthang, what it hunts then, God only know.

The journey was turning more adventurous as Regzin was describing his last visit to Tsomoriri in first week of Jan when there was no ice at all and even the lake was not frozen. In this journey we couldn’t spot the road except the tyre marks. As I mentioned Regzin had some lucky charms, somehow we found a JCB was coming clearing the ice and I am almost sure as was Regzin, without that solitary touch of God coming from nowhere, we might not able to reach Tsomoriri. Later we linked the thread as we met few army men in Chumathang who were waiting to be transported to Chumur and it was for the army truck to pass, the JCB was in action. So it’s all about the time and luck when you venture in winter Ladakh, even best possible plan would fail and best possible backup won’t work and that’s the beauty of the place.

We reached Tso Kiagar which was completely frozen, took few snaps and then drove straight to Tsomoriri which was also completely frozen, couldn’t just believe my eyes that such a gorgeous lake can be frozen and all blue turned in white miraculously. The whole Changthang which is so lively in summer months seems to be sleeping in a magic touch of white. We didn’t have time to wait for long as the evening was approaching, cold wind was blowing furiously and sun was hiding in back of the mountains, clouds were coming from all around. We started our return journey and reached Chumathang before it was dark. That evening we hopelessly tried to take some night shots but understood 2 things clearly, first you shouldn’t challenge Changthang temp after sun is down and second, whatever Nikon says, it can’t sustain extremities of Ladakh winter at night. The fabulous D7000 of Sanjay started malfunctioning after a long exposure of 20mins and I didn’t dare to risk my old and feeble D80 after that. We took probably 3 blankets each on top of whatever layers of dresses we had and slept.

Morning at Thiksey:

Gorgeous location of Spituk Monastery:

At Upashi from bridge on Indus:

Colorful canyons on the way to Chumathang:

Indus Water started becoming narrower:

Road towards Mahe Bridge:

Read the BRO Board: Kashmir to Kanyakumari – India is One:

Mahe Bridge:

Both Sides from Mahe Bridge – Indus was completely frozen on top:

Approaching Sumdo:

Sleeping in white blanket – Sumdo:

Tso Kiagar:

On the way to Tsomoriri:

Tsomoriri – Frozen by all means:

On the way back to Chumathang, a small pass:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

Next: Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Villages along the Road:

Approaching Khaltse, see the mountain colors:

The mark of Tea cup on a frozen table:

On the Batalik Road towards Dha:

Village on the other side (See how the stream coming from the village frozen before meeting Indus)

The lovely vista:

Indus at its best:

The Bridge crossing Indus and meeting Batalik Road (the road through Chikan which I discussed with Harsh, last night over phone)

The scenery continues:

The river corners in deep gorges completely frozen due to absence of sunlight:

The Indus from Dha Village:

On the way to Dha Village:

Local Lady at Dha Village:

Return Journey:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

May 29, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 3:

We already knew from Alok that a bridge on the way to Dha Hanu was removed and they had caught in surprise while coming back. So I started preparing some plans as I didn’t understand the exact location of the bridge. First name came to mind was that of Harsh, I called him straight away (as I usually do whenever I am in trouble in HP/ Ladakh, as I know the most authentic map, you could get from him only) to understand the possible work around in case the bridge is not restored. I remembered Harsh covered Dah Hanu from Lamayuru via Chikan, as usual he explained me quickly about the roads there and thanks buddy you are so helpful always. Alok had an impression the bridge might get restored in a day or two, so we were hopeful as well but Regzin understands the ground reality of Ladakh much better than any of us, he asked us to be prepared in early morning as it was a day trip and we had to cover a lot of distance. So we had a quick breakfast and I must say Tso Kar Hotel was very cooperative, at such a low minus temp, they were ready with Alu – Paratha at 6 in the morning. Understanding morning sky when lights are not fully out is always difficult and Sanjay did the mistake of finding it as a clear day. I was confident it won’t be, IMD is quite good in WD forecasting and I have been observing that almost for last 4 years. Locals told me immediately it was going to be a gloomy day with fair chance of snow, only hope was IMD predicted it as a weak WD. The moment we started, we understood it’s absolutely cloudy, the peaks of stok Kangri and other ranges were not visible and there was a grey colored sky all around. The more we were going, weather was getting worse further. At Nimmu, it started snowing and thanks to Almighty we got a chance to see a completely different view of Ladakh in less than 24 hours.

We had a quick tea break at Nimmu and then enjoying the snow ride towards Khaltse. One thing we noticed, Regzin was keep entering in all the fuel stations enroute and tried his best to get fuel, though his tank was full. When enquiring about that, we came to know he was trying to get diesel for one of his friend / relative who got stuck in Khaltsi. Now that early in a snowy morning no pump was open, Regzin had to wake up people in a fuel station finally get his Jaricane filled up. We kept moving with keeping Indus in left and enjoying the amazing views all around of NH1. He stopped before Khaltse and picked his friend up, now I knew him, he was Sonam and he was one of the driver of a group from Kolkata in 2011 October, incidentally I recognized him from my last trip and then understood that his brother’s car (the one Alok used too) was still on the other side of the Khaltsi bridge and the bridge was still going on. Regzin planned everything carefully and that’s why he was so frantically looking for diesel in so early hours of day. Anyway we parked the car in this side and started walking towards other side. With so many cameras, they thought us as a group of reporters and asked us to meet the boss of the team working there. When we told we were just visitors they were happy (everyone is scared of media), reason was clear as since 2 days before they were telling everyone the bridge would be commissioned in 24 hours, Alok also heard the same 48 hours back and locals in Khaltse said the realistic dateline should be another 4 days at least. Just imagine how thin the traffic was between Kargil and Leh so they could easily keep the highway dysfunctional for a week without anyone’s notice. Alok rightly pointed out, they brought heavy artilleries and crossed the bridge capacity and that broke the bridge but anyway it was amazing to see how adjusting the locals were, you should learn patience from the people living here in so harsh conditions.

On the other side, Regzin had to put lot of efforts to heat up the diesel of Innova and we almost spent an hour there before we could start our journey towards Dha. Soon the road bifurcates and first time in life I took the Batalik route and it was amazingly beautiful, at least because of semi frozen Indus and colorful mountains, I found this road more scenic than the fork via Lamayuru. We reached Dha quite late and started to walk up towards the village, now after initial few steps, the whole village was situation as racks in the mountain wall, you know you have to go up to next higher level but finding the road was difficult in snow. Regzin was somehow trying to show us couple of natives as Aryans which when we challenged he confessed as they being Nepali only. The village and the people were amazing and we really didn’t have much time to explore as we had to go back to Leh all the way and it was almost 4.00pm by then. We started our return journey and yes again left the innova on the other side of bridge and crossed walking and yes Mr. X had a nasty fall while returning, he was lucky as he was with a thick gloves that saved his hands, he got some minor injuries in knee though but yes it was an experience too to touch the water at that late hours. Once again a tea break in other side of bridge and finally we started from Khaltsi around 6.00 in evening in middle of dark for Leh. Regzin was expert in such a snowy and frozen track in dark and controlled the car very well in slippery condition without reducing the speed much.

The moon rise behind Stok was amazing and the whole ambience with snowy peaks, mighty Indus got changed in the silvery touch of moonlight. Awesome scene, hardly can be expressed in words. We reached Leh quite late around 8.30 and next day we had to check out from Leh as we were proceeding towards Chumathang.

Painting in a snowy morning:

Amazing landscapes:

Indus flowing lazily:

So True:

Amazing Vista:

Note the water freezing on lens (The spots on sky):

The Scorpio:

Fabulous colors in white mountains:

Beautiful Vista:

Villages on Other side:

So Colorful:

NH1 – Leh – Kargil – Srinagar in the month of January:

The mountains are at their best

Locals lead quiet life:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Driving through Ice age:

Our Team standing with Regzin (It required skill to go there and pose for photo)

Water bodies Frozen:

The Scorpio:

Lone Kiang:

Kingdom of snow:

First view of Pangong (Nature’s own Photoshop, where is the blue?)

Respect to BRO:

Road Ahead:

Regzin and his Scorpio,

It’s everyone’s dream to stand on Frozen Pangong (Almost in middle of Lake):

The magic of frozen Pangong Tso:

The Ice on Frozen Lake is so hard it can easily take a fully loaded Scorpio with 4 persons:

Returning through snow land:

Clouds approaching on Chang La:

Shakti in afternoon :

Colorful Shakti:

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 2:

With the permit in hand and a bright day forecasted, we were pretty confident to have a great day. Spoke Regzin last night and planned for a Pangong Day Trip. We neither had time nor had courage to stay the night in Pangong once Regzin shared the experience Alok, Jasdeep had and one of their friend was not well after that. Now day trip to Pangong means you have to start really early. In the winter, length of day is small as well, so we decided to start around 7.00 in morning, It was clear but sun had not come yet and outside was simply freezing. This was our first taste of harsh winter of Western Tibet, North of the Himalayas. On the way we were greeted by a brilliant sun rise and the red to orange to yellow to white transformation on the snow peaks couldn’t be expressed in words. We stopped beside Leh Manali Highway and tried to took couple of shots, I tried with my gloves off and could take hardly 2 snaps before I had to retreat. But then it was a scene you couldn’t afford to miss, so fight with nature was going on, gloves off, taking a quick snap, running back to car, put the hands on heater, gloves on and then again taking the courage to take another shot, these sequences were enacted for sometime, before we moved forward. At Karu, we had taken a tea break and that was really a break in that cold morning. We moved forward now towards Changla, but what it was, I couldn’t recognize the known places, those I visited couple of times, it looked like a journey on top of white carpet, sun ray was falling at the far on Wari La Top, making a serene experience. We moved forward, experienced a completely different view of Shakti from top, the famous Z in the road and the chill in the air was getting heavier as we proceeded towards Changla. We finally reached there and what a look!! Changla normally has snow always on top but this was an amazing view, the whole world was white out in front of us and barring a few army personnel and few dogs there was no living being in sight. Amazing it was!! The down slope towards Durbuk was changed as well, the whole stretch of sand zones were covered by snow, we faced black ice on the road and again it was Regzin whose experience made us through. He even keeps a shovel in car and dig some sands and dust and throw it on the bad sections to have a grip on the wheel, it was amazing to see how human being fights with nature to survive in harsh conditions. We reached Tangtse and ordered for our lunch and planned to take it on return, we had few cups of tea in the warm kitchen before we started for Pangong. No marmots, no sand stretch, it was all white, sometimes difficult to find the road other than tyre marks, we were keep going with that amazing experience and then reached the point of first view of Pangong, it usually a must stop for anyone visiting the lake, we couldn’t simply understand the point unless it was written in road side board. Really we couldn’t make out which was Pangong from there. The first view of the lake was unbelievable. Where the colorful lake gone? It was just frozen completely and covered with snow all around, we could identify the lake just by the plain lands in front of us on the backdrop of the mountains. Regzin asked us, if we wanted to go to lake or wanted to visit towards Spangmik, the unanimous choice was the lake and he drove straight into the lake, no Indian army was seen nearby, of course no boat to patrol and you could drive to China until you were caught by their army if you wish. Pangong experience couldn’t be written in words, see the snaps to feel it. It was a life time experience for all of us. We started our return and took a lunch break at Tangtse and the infamous wind started blowing since then, we thanked God that it was absolutely windless and sunny in Pangong. Once we were taking lunch we saw the clouds started coming and we knew it as IMD predicted a weak western disturbance on next day. So we hurriedly started for Leh, crossing Changla and came back to Leh by evening. A wonderful day came to an end, now weather was started getting gloomy, clouds were coming from all around and we went to sleep expecting a completely new experience on next day.

Golden Sunrise:

The clouds are at their best:

Shakti with Wari La at background:

Shakti from Top:

Lovely Setting:

On the way to Changla:

Far away army camp:

Heavenly Changla:

Previous: Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling

May 28, 2014May 29, 2014 by Kaushik

Day 1:

So many times we have read the advice and even advised others to make sure that he/she doesn’t land up in Leh on Sunday and Govt Holidays as permit won’t be available to travel. Somehow in such a hurry we missed that point, it was a long weekend and we understood DC office would be closed for next 3 days. Even Regzin was not hoping much on that situation, but suddenly I thought of opening the Leh website to see if I could get any contact. Landlines / Office no. won’t work as it was holiday, only hope was mobile, first few either gone unanswered or switched off. Finally got hold of PA to DC and explained her about our situation and in winter ladakh when you have a fixed date of departure, have even fewer days of good weather, loosing a day is significant and loosing 3 days mean loosing the whole trip almost. She was kind, listen to us and spoken to ADC on our behalf and even shared ADC’s personal mobile with us. We called and pleaded him for the permits, finally it was decided that though it was a holiday, we would submit our documents to Chowkidar of DC Office and ADC would come sometime on next day conveniently and got those signed and then Chowkidar would stamp those from office before handing over to us. We did exactly the same and as Sanjay mentioned luckily got the permits on time even without paying the wild life conservation fees (Which is significantly increased this year) as the office was actually closed. So the trip surely started with good luck.

We started our day by submitting our documents to the Chowkidar and started our journey towards Chilling where road ends and trek starts for Chadar. The beauty of Ladakh in winter is simply can not be expressed in words, better we stick to snaps.

Stok Kangri from Leh in a winter Morning:

Freezing yet flowing Indus:

Winter Ladakh, so fascinating:

Magnetic Hill on Leh – Kargil Road:

Road from Sangam towards Chilling (Zanskar is frozen in left):

Magical Zanskar frozen completely:

The Road Continues by the side of Zanskar:

Zanskar river magical water through a fish like opening from the Chadar:

Chadar is formed hard and strong:

Magical Zanskar River:

So clear the water, you can the stones in river bed even after it’s flowing so powerfully:

Standing on Chadar is always a dream:

Chadar was so thick here, we couldn’t even put a dent by throwing big stones from top:

Chadar is being formed here, see still the bluish water is visible below the ice layer:

Sangam from Zanskar side (Indus coming from Right)

We returned to Leh in afternoon and first thing we did was visiting the Chowkidar in DC Office and fortunately we got our signed permit ready. So now we are ready to explore some more interesting areas.

Previous: Ladakh In Winter – Few More Magic Moments

Next: Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

Explore The Unexplored

Author: Kaushik

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Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-2

Ladakh in Winter – Chumathang , Loma and Back to Leh Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Chumathang, Tsomoriri

Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Exploring Dha Hanu Part-1

Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-2

Ladakh In Winter – Across Chang La to Picturesque Pangong Part-1

Ladakh in Winter – Journey towards Chilling